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Routes in Dead Cats

Almost Nothing To It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Flip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolted like Mex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Centipede S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clawing Zoe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Cats S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dude, Where's My Cat? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Emma Peel TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Unknown, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hair Balls and Spray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hello Kitty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hissing Cloe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Meows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lessa the Puramatic 6000 Kitty S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Madrone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mario's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Name is Mud S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Snatch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ralph's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reimerama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolly Pollly Coco Kitty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ScottÂ’s Pelotas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smelling Cat Calvin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Ballet S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: Dave and Duane Cardosa
Page Views: 1,913 total · 14/month
Shared By: 8jimi8 Clary on Sep 2, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts out on the right side of Dead Cats Wall the next route over from Power Snatch.

The start is a three pad undercling on the left hand, the right is a comfy side pull. Step up right and smear left, laying back on the undercling. Throw right for a big crimp. Rotate the left and place a kneebar on the shelf under the bulge. Match the crimp and then fire left or right for jugs. Smear left and step high bringing your balance up on the curb and let your right hand deadpoint on a small lip. Move your feet below you and stand up reaching left for the thankyoujug. Work the jugs up the face and finish right on 5.6 face or finish left on the upper face of Power Snatch.

Location

The obvious blank bulge on the right side of the wall. One route right of Power Snatch.

Protection

3 bolts and sport-clip anchors. Well bolted and easily spotted : attentive belayer required of course...

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Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
 
Clint Walker ATX   Austin, TX
 
Great route with a solid boulder start. Love the pull through at the beginning and the thin face climbing. In my opinion if you finish right to the proper anchors you're selling this route short. Finish left on Power Snatch for a more consistent rating.

I think saying the route isn't bolted well is probably correct. There are some potential injuries before you've clipped the second bolt. Either stick clip the second of be very sure of your abilities. The anchors to the right do meander a little off route but the 5.6 rating to them is about right. Left will present a 5.10b-ish finish. Mar 25, 2013
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
Well bolted...are you kidding? If you blow the second clip you will deck. If you fall going for the good hold above the initial crux sequence you risk a thrashing on your knees and a harsh catch for your belayer. If you fall going for the anchors you will f$@k yourself up. Not to mention it's a sandbag. I don't really care that it's poorly bolted, or that there was some ethic that dictated "only 3 bolts per climb" I'm just warning other climbers that no, this is not well bolted. Dec 22, 2010