Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,151 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Climb past great holds on the flake (as you lean to the right), then face climb past three bolts to the anchors. The crux is climbing through the sloping hand holds between the last bolt and the anchors. Great feet with some better holds up and to the left.

Location

Left-most route on the small wall between Dead Cats and Rhetoric Walls. Look for a left facing flake just off the ground.

Protection

Three Bolts to quick links.

Photos

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I've led this a few times and don't really like it. It's fun until the crux, where things get really polished. Although I've never fallen, I've spent as much time looking at and figuring out the crux as I would for something two grades harder. No, it's not bad and not harder than 5.8 once you just do it, but the polish can unnerve you.

If I'm reading the page author correctly, the great holds up and left are actually on the 5.7 next door. And those holds will have you way left of the anchors, so don't fall!

I realize the difference between 5.7 and 5.8 is not something to become an epic debate among world-class climbers, but I'm noting the point.

In the end, I think it took me longer to write this than it did to climb the route, lol. Oct 23, 2016