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Routes in Dead Cats

Almost Nothing To It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Flip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolted like Mex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Centipede S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clawing Zoe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Cats S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dude, Where's My Cat? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Emma Peel TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Unknown, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hair Balls and Spray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hello Kitty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hissing Cloe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Meows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lessa the Puramatic 6000 Kitty S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Madrone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mario's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Name is Mud S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Snatch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ralph's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reimerama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolly Pollly Coco Kitty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ScottÂ’s Pelotas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smelling Cat Calvin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Ballet S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 894 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Climb past great holds on the flake (as you lean to the right), then face climb past three bolts to the anchors. The crux is climbing through the sloping hand holds between the last bolt and the anchors. Great feet with some better holds up and to the left.

Location

Left-most route on the small wall between Dead Cats and Rhetoric Walls. Look for a left facing flake just off the ground.

Protection

Three Bolts to quick links.

Photos

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I've led this a few times and don't really like it. It's fun until the crux, where things get really polished. Although I've never fallen, I've spent as much time looking at and figuring out the crux as I would for something two grades harder. No, it's not bad and not harder than 5.8 once you just do it, but the polish can unnerve you.

If I'm reading the page author correctly, the great holds up and left are actually on the 5.7 next door. And those holds will have you way left of the anchors, so don't fall!

I realize the difference between 5.7 and 5.8 is not something to become an epic debate among world-class climbers, but I'm noting the point.

In the end, I think it took me longer to write this than it did to climb the route, lol. Oct 23, 2016