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Routes in Dead Cats

Almost Nothing To It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Flip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolted like Mex S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Centipede S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clawing Zoe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Cats S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dude, Where's My Cat? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Emma Peel TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Unknown, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hair Balls and Spray S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hello Kitty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hissing Cloe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Meows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lessa the Puramatic 6000 Kitty S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Madrone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mario's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Name is Mud S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Snatch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ralph's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Reimerama S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolly Pollly Coco Kitty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
ScottÂ’s Pelotas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smelling Cat Calvin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Ballet S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Ralph Vega
Page Views: 420 total · 9/month
Shared By: J. Thornton on Dec 22, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Crux move or two after third bolt. Most do it as a long throw, stronger climbers do it staticly.

Location

Left of Hello Kitty

Protection

3 lead bolts, old-school 2-chain anchor (no sport clip anchor).

Photos

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Unlike the description claims, the crux has nothing to do with strength and all about arm length if you want to static it. Easily all points off for 5'8 or shorter. Jan 21, 2018
J. Thornton
  5.11c
J. Thornton  
  5.11c
The route description holds true for climbers taller than 5'9" or so, like me at 6'2" where I have to do a 'throw' to latch the left hand hold. I have seen other climbers latch the left hand hold with a right arm lock-off - a move for which I lack the strength. But you make a good point that climbers 5'8" or shorter possibly cannot reach the left hand hold regardless of doing a right hand lock-off and thus need to do a dyno. For these climbers it may be harder than 11c.
Some of us really like 'one-move-wonder' cruxes like this; these are often better than multiple-move endurance cruxes. Jan 27, 2018

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