Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 20,036 total · 117/month
Shared By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Start right in the center of the face, up a prominent crack feature.

P1. Climb long 5.6 to bolted belay, stay in dihedral.

P2. The crux pitch: traverse right from the belay, take a short steep crack with sometimes fixed pro, then move left to pull the small roof/bulge (5.9). Then continue on an easy 5.7+ finger crack to an uncomfortable bolted belay.

  • *It is possible to start with the finger crack on the right and continue straight up. This option is also good, but I did not believe it was as fun as the route proper. Staying to the right, however, allows you to skip a pitch, and you will end up at the top of pitch 3 on a nice ledge.

P3. Ascend a short 5.8 chimney, come out to the right to another nice, bolted belay.

P4. This is the mental crux pitch. It is short, and it is hard to find "the" hold, 5.8+. Go up the dihedral, then break out right to face climbing, a #2 Camalot in a horizontal slot is key. You may brave to go at most 8-10 feet without protection on this short pitch.

P5. Traverse with no pro at 5.4 to a dihedral left, then continue up a lieback 5.7+ dihedral to another outstanding belay.

From here, it's route finding from the top, nothing harder than 5.8 whichever way you go.

Location

You can rap down or walk off.... Rapping, I found to be easier, just make sure to always look at Mt. [Princeton], 'cause what ever is on the top of it, is heading your way! To get up to the climb, it's a faint, if any, climbers' trail.

Protection

Bring mid sizes up to size 3, double on 0.75 helps. Bring smalls though (Aliens!!), really, just a normal rack up to 3 inches.

Photos