Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Davis Face

Carter Classic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
D3 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
D4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Davis' Dirty Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Sport Route Right of Center Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's Up? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winter Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 12 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jess Lewis & Bobby Lewis
Page Views: 4,794 total, 112/month
Shared By: Jess Lewis on Jun 14, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is a mixed route. The crux on this route is pitch 8. Pitches 6 & 7 traverse left across the face, and then there is a pitch that climbs at 5.10a. It is short, thin, and well-protected. The final moves on pitch 12 are also a bit tricky with a perfect hand jam in a roof and little to no feet. This climb goes fast with the short pitches.

To rap of this route, you need two 60m ropes. You rap down D4.

Location

This route is on the far right side of the Davis Face proper. There is a trail up from the base that is separate from the trail heading up to the Carter Classic. Begin climbing on a small bench before a gully on the south end of the face. You can wrap this route with 2 60m ropes in 2 rappels or 1 60m rope in 5 raps. There are rap rings on a number of the pitches, which allows you to bail off at a number of different spots if needed.

Protection

This route is now a mixed route. Previously it was bolted European style, super alpine. If you have climbed it before, be aware that you now need a small rack of gear! Bring singles in pro and draws for mixed climbing.
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10a
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10a
Good advice from ryanwallace77 with the white spot. I'm uncertain why there are so many belay stations, but anyone comfortable running out easy terrain can go to the third set of anchors with a 60 meter. From there, the next pitch leads up left and through some fun terrain, then, passing another set of anchors (next pitch), a big flat area and the 5.9 finger crack/ off width(ish). I linked these next two pitches with minimal gear and some drag. The traverse left pitches are next, these are best done without skipping an anchor due to traversing around corners, don't forget to clip the bolts to protect the follower, a long double shoulder length is good for the first bolt past the anchor mid way through the traverse to reduce drag (2 traverse left pitches). From here, there is some fun, 5.9+, face stuff and pass another anchor, belayed at the next anchor near the dead tree. From here, I led it to the top, skipping one more anchor. An easy start, I ran it out and only clipped the far spaced bolts in the beginning, this run ends with some great 10a top out moves right on a huge ledge directly at the rap station (top of D4). Two raps will get you to the ground with double 60s, although the second rap barely makes it, so be careful!

6 pitches.

Single rack, 10 alpine draws (skipping some bolts), anchor material (all anchors have two bolts).

I'm glad some of the bolts were chopped, as it already seems over bolted with too many belay stations, but following the bolts makes for easy route finding that would otherwise be very difficult.

This is a great, fun, varied route with a creative track up a nice face. Oct 4, 2015
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I'm sorry you got so much pressure to make this a mixed route from locals, Bobby. They have sport routes bolted all over Europe now and of course down in Potrero Chico, Mexico. It's going to take a while for all of these traditionalists to die off for this to exist here. I'm glad the Mt. Royal routes don't get so much flack. Aug 16, 2015
Climbed D3 yesterday (July 5 2015). The right hand bolt at the anchor of pitch 2 is loose. The nut spins freely. We didn't have anything to tighten this up at the time. Be aware. If someone has some tools to bring up with them, they may want to strap a wrench to their belt. Jul 6, 2015
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
Bolts gone now? This now a single-rack climb, with extra draws to clip some bolts?

Maybe someone can update it to be marked Sport+Trad. I'm excited to get on this and D4! May 20, 2015
I am going to pull the bolts next week (April 26th) from the sections of D3 where gear placements are possible. It will then no longer be a sport route, but rather will be mixed and will require both draws and pro. Seems like that will make the route less controversial and be more in keeping with the area standard. Bobby Apr 16, 2015
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Bottom pitches were fun and creative with varied climbing. Feb 14, 2015
Slayer1  
This route is almost like a via feratta, but you free-climb it. It is a very creative line that is super fun and a very worthy outing. Don't be scared off by the grade. There are no moves harder than 5.8 and most of the route is 5.5 or lower.

Yes, 80% of the bolts are unnecessary; so if that kind of thing bothers you, don't do this route, but if you do do it, I guarantee you will have fun.

Great on a winter day if it's sunny and not too windy. Jan 22, 2015
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
If you rap the D4 route from the summit, head for the rap station at the edge of the upper headwall (pitch 4 anchors for D4). This will be towards the ends of your two 70 meter ropes. There is an anchor/rap station above this you should skip. Then, you can rappel all the way to the ground from there. Oct 19, 2014
An outstanding route!! We also linked most pitches and did it in 6 1/2. The 1/2 being one of the traverses around some spicy corners.

Approach trails from the standpipe are faint but well cairned. A good way to find the route is aim for the big, white spot about a 1/4 of the way up. The route starts just down and to the right of the spot, and the first bolts are spray painted black.

We brought 18 draws, and this was just enough for a few of the linked pitches. 1/2 of our draws were extendables, and we were glad for them.

The route is very well-protected; bolts spaced perfectly enough to keep the route exciting but not super freak-out either. The two traverse pitches are a nice twist.

It's a lofty route with spectacular views. Super fun!!! Aug 14, 2014
Jess Lewis
Buena Vista, Colorado
 
Jess Lewis   Buena Vista, Colorado
 
Hi there. So in response to Lee Jenkins comments, the rap route can be done in just a couple of raps with 2 x 60 m ropes.

From the top of pitch 4, there are two sets of anchors.

One is the set you used when climbing and are sitting atop a large ledge on pitch 4.

The anchors you rap from are on the other side of a block about 20 feet away on the same very large ledge. You are able to just walk over to them unroped if you are bailing from the top of pitch 4. The upper rap pitch takes you right to the block where there are rap rings for the second rap off.

... I think this is clear. Shoot me a message if it isn't. Aug 4, 2014
Lee Jenkins
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10a
Lee Jenkins   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10a
We doubled up all the pitches (i.e. belayed at every other anchor) for a total of 6 pitches.

Very fun route. It will be better when it is climbed more to remove sand/lichen, etc.

A few comments;

- P3 felt like 5.6.
- P5 felt like 5.9 start and 5.8 OW, since you don't really climb it like an OW.
- P7 felt like the crux pitch at 5.10a for a few moves.
- If you double up pitches, take 14 draws.
- Rap the route. It's either 2 raps on double 60s or 4 raps on a single 70m. Jun 15, 2014