D3

We doubled up all the pitches (i.e. belayed at every other anchor) for a total of 6 pitches.

Very fun route. It will be better when it is climbed more to remove sand/lichen, etc.

A few comments;

- P3 felt like 5.6.
- P5 felt like 5.9 start and 5.8 OW, since you don't really climb it like an OW.
- P7 felt like the crux pitch at 5.10a for a few moves.
- If you double up pitches, take 14 draws.
- Rap the route. It's either 2 raps on double 60s or 4 raps on a single 70m. Jun 15, 2014

Hi there. So in response to Lee Jenkins comments, the rap route can be done in just a couple of raps with 2 x 60 m ropes.

From the top of pitch 4, there are two sets of anchors.

One is the set you used when climbing and are sitting atop a large ledge on pitch 4.

The anchors you rap from are on the other side of a block about 20 feet away on the same very large ledge. You are able to just walk over to them unroped if you are bailing from the top of pitch 4. The upper rap pitch takes you right to the block where there are rap rings for the second rap off.

... I think this is clear. Shoot me a message if it isn't. Aug 4, 2014

An outstanding route!! We also linked most pitches and did it in 6 1/2. The 1/2 being one of the traverses around some spicy corners.

Approach trails from the standpipe are faint but well cairned. A good way to find the route is aim for the big, white spot about a 1/4 of the way up. The route starts just down and to the right of the spot, and the first bolts are spray painted black.

We brought 18 draws, and this was just enough for a few of the linked pitches. 1/2 of our draws were extendables, and we were glad for them.

The route is very well-protected; bolts spaced perfectly enough to keep the route exciting but not super freak-out either. The two traverse pitches are a nice twist.

It's a lofty route with spectacular views. Super fun!!! Aug 14, 2014

If you rap the D4 route from the summit, head for the rap station at the edge of the upper headwall (pitch 4 anchors for D4). This will be towards the ends of your two 70 meter ropes. There is an anchor/rap station above this you should skip. Then, you can rappel all the way to the ground from there. Oct 19, 2014

This route is almost like a via feratta, but you free-climb it. It is a very creative line that is super fun and a very worthy outing. Don't be scared off by the grade. There are no moves harder than 5.8 and most of the route is 5.5 or lower.

Yes, 80% of the bolts are unnecessary; so if that kind of thing bothers you, don't do this route, but if you do do it, I guarantee you will have fun.

Great on a winter day if it's sunny and not too windy. Jan 22, 2015

Bottom pitches were fun and creative with varied climbing. Feb 14, 2015

I am going to pull the bolts next week (April 26th) from the sections of D3 where gear placements are possible. It will then no longer be a sport route, but rather will be mixed and will require both draws and pro. Seems like that will make the route less controversial and be more in keeping with the area standard. Bobby Apr 16, 2015

Bolts gone now? This now a single-rack climb, with extra draws to clip some bolts?

Maybe someone can update it to be marked Sport+Trad. I'm excited to get on this and D4! May 20, 2015

Climbed D3 yesterday (July 5 2015). The right hand bolt at the anchor of pitch 2 is loose. The nut spins freely. We didn't have anything to tighten this up at the time. Be aware. If someone has some tools to bring up with them, they may want to strap a wrench to their belt. Jul 6, 2015

I'm sorry you got so much pressure to make this a mixed route from locals, Bobby. They have sport routes bolted all over Europe now and of course down in Potrero Chico, Mexico. It's going to take a while for all of these traditionalists to die off for this to exist here. I'm glad the Mt. Royal routes don't get so much flack. Aug 16, 2015

Good advice from ryanwallace77 with the white spot. I'm uncertain why there are so many belay stations, but anyone comfortable running out easy terrain can go to the third set of anchors with a 60 meter. From there, the next pitch leads up left and through some fun terrain, then, passing another set of anchors (next pitch), a big flat area and the 5.9 finger crack/ off width(ish). I linked these next two pitches with minimal gear and some drag. The traverse left pitches are next, these are best done without skipping an anchor due to traversing around corners, don't forget to clip the bolts to protect the follower, a long double shoulder length is good for the first bolt past the anchor mid way through the traverse to reduce drag (2 traverse left pitches). From here, there is some fun, 5.9+, face stuff and pass another anchor, belayed at the next anchor near the dead tree. From here, I led it to the top, skipping one more anchor. An easy start, I ran it out and only clipped the far spaced bolts in the beginning, this run ends with some great 10a top out moves right on a huge ledge directly at the rap station (top of D4). Two raps will get you to the ground with double 60s, although the second rap barely makes it, so be careful!

6 pitches.

Single rack, 10 alpine draws (skipping some bolts), anchor material (all anchors have two bolts).

I'm glad some of the bolts were chopped, as it already seems over bolted with too many belay stations, but following the bolts makes for easy route finding that would otherwise be very difficult.

This is a great, fun, varied route with a creative track up a nice face. Oct 4, 2015

Great route with lots of moderate climbing and a few tougher moves. Great exposure on a few pitches!

I like that this is a mixed route as there are ample places for gear. Personally, I think the bolts should've been completely removed and not just chopped. Yeah, I know pulling that many studs would be a lot of work, but the way it looks now is an eyesore. Jul 22, 2018

Hey friends,
My partner accidentally sank a brand new #1 cam on pitch one. I live in BV if you get it out and have a good heart. I'll buy you a pack of beer in exchange for the cam. My number is 719.395.5546. I'll be eternally grateful!
Jess Jul 27, 2018 · Lost & Found