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Routes in Perfect Crimb Area

Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lacuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Technical Difficulties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 126 total, 1/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

A nice little route with an incredibly unfortunate belay. My girlfriend still scowls at me when she's reminded of my three tries on this route, and how she endured a crumbling hell belay for all three of them. Hard eleven climbing becomes 10/11 climbing for twenty or thirty feet, and then a great rest high on the wall.
From there, you shake, and look, shake and look. Unless a bunch of chalk gets sprayed on it, you won't be able to see how to finish the route, so just go up and throw yourself at it. The crux move is a long, low percentage throw to a nice, flat jug. The hardest part is how far away that big hold is. On-sight attempts are great fun on this thing. If you miss the crux throw, you can downclimb to the rest, and try to think of what to do. Shocking that the rock is good the whole way, when many of these rarely climbed twelves at Red Wing usually, and inexplicably, continue past the good rock and into the bad.
Would benefit from a carefully built trail to the base, and either a small platform dugout, or a belay bolt at the bottom.

Protection

bolts. Please use your own gear for toprope.

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