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Fallout, aka Perfect Sex
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.5 from 23
votes
Routes in Perfect Crimb Area
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Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lacuna S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Technical Difficulties S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Two Hand Edge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | FTR: Nate Postma,/FL: Mike Dahlberg |
| Page Views: | 2,865 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | chris tregge on Jul 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
Big and burly is the name of the game. This route is 2 to the right of Perfect Crimb, and starts up the face to the big notch in the lower roof. It's pretty sandy on the first face so be careful climbing to the first bolt. From there, catch a little rest under the roof before setting out for the sprint to the anchors. Pull the roof and then move left around that hanging flake and onto the next face. I've heard you can knee bar somewhere up there but I never tried. Pull the next roof and finish on good but pumpy jugs and edges. Then attempt the real crux of the climb, retrieving your notched biners, because you are too cheap to buy notchless ones.
- RCM&W #86, p. 131
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