Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Perfect Crimb Area

Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lacuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Technical Difficulties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 1,616 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Thin crack in the middle of a dark face located to the left and around the arete from Perfect Crimb. Harder than it looks. Sustained 5.10 climbing with pumpy and difficult gear placements on insecure footholds. Respectable climb.

I know of at least one long fall on this route where all pieces except one ripped and the leader ended a foot above the ground. Small gear is rarely bomber at Red Wing so zip it up to limit chances of decking.

Protection

Complete set of nuts, small TCU's or Aliens, although I wouldn't try to whip on them at Red Wing.

Photos

Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Nice climb. Sent it today on lead with a double set of c3s and some nuts. Definitely needed the selection to find it less intimidating. Sustained 10 climbing, but no move too hard. The fear keeps you moving. Nov 6, 2011
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
The gear for sure on this route is not what I would consider ideal, super thin in insecure Red Wing dolomite. I did the climb yesterday 5/17/11, and it was a great route needless to say. The whole time I was climbing it though I pretty much felt like I was free soloing. It was either go for the onsite or wet my pants situation, and luckily I got the former. May 18, 2011