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Routes in Perfect Crimb Area

Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lacuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Technical Difficulties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1990
Page Views: 8,048 total · 57/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


146 Opinions

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Description

Climb up to a small ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue up the dihedral, steming your way to the top on somewhat polished foot holds. A fairly sustained climb, one of the better 5.9s on the bluff.
  • RCM&W #84, p.131

Location

Perfect Crimb is the thin crack in the dihedral to the left of the large roof.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.
Szymon
burbs of Chicago
 
Szymon   burbs of Chicago
 
Great climb really enjoyed the route. Sep 30, 2013
Josh Meis
  5.9
Josh Meis  
  5.9
Lead this route on Thanksgiving morning 2012 and pulled on the massive jug by the chaines at the top and the entire jug came off in my hand to turn the top jug into a nice slopper. A great climb. Nov 28, 2012
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Did this one today on gear and felt very solid. I have been lead most routes at RW that can be protected with gear, and this is one of the more solid ones. Nice clean placements, good finger locks, and the feet, while slippery, are bomber most of the time. Solid 9, but nothing more. Nov 6, 2011
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.9
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.9
Still a classic. Sep 11, 2011
Dreez  
THis climb has seen its day. Very slimy. Last week leader wasted her leg on really bad rope burn. THis week leader fell backwards on her head and went to hospital.

I give this 2 stars going down. Wear a helmet. Sep 11, 2011
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
leave the bolts, please. this isn't boulder canyon. it's a damn choss quarry.

that said, if you really want trad at RW, hop on: barnburner, relentless direct, don't mean nothin, or go "retro style" (aka sans bolts) on roofburner, annadonia, talking with god, doctor limit, or frequent flatulence. Jun 6, 2011
Matt J
Bozeman, Montana
Matt J   Bozeman, Montana
It's never too late to chop the bolts.

It would be nice to have at least one decent gear route at the wing, for those who are looking for that kinda thing. Jun 5, 2011
ferrells  
 
I led this one on gear maybe five or six years ago. It was definitely a different experience. The gear was alright, by my memory, but never great. Maybe PG13 as a gear lead. Maybe not, but at the very least, it required concentration.
It's for the best that this one's been bolted, I think. When I needed bolted 5.9's to warm up, this route was, thankfully, available to me. Legions of other Red Wingers, I'm sure, feel the same way. Oh, and the experience of leading it on gear is still available for the local hoping to prove him or herself on slick 5.9 PG13. May 30, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.9
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.9
Oconnork says: "What was the reason for bolting this climb?"

Why don't you call Nicros and ask Nate what the heck he was thinking when he bolted this climb while developing this crag the year you were born. Feb 24, 2010
Kevin O'Connor
Jacksonville, AR
Kevin O'Connor   Jacksonville, AR
What was the reason for bolting this climb? Feb 22, 2010
Can also be lead on gear. I placed nothing bigger than a .75 C4 on the whole route but there are plenty of places to stop and plug in stuff. Aug 2, 2008