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Routes in Perfect Crimb Area

Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lacuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Technical Difficulties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 4,334 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Advanced Birding is a nice climb past 2 small roofs that is three climbs right of Perfect Crimb. It is a load of fun and on the easy side for the 'book grade' (12b) so lots of people use as it as their attempt at onsighting or flashing a 12. Ignoring the grade issue for a second, it is still a 4 star climb, up an easy face to crimps above the first roof, and then a big move to a hueco below the next roof, then a couple power pulls and you're through.

  • RCM&W #87, p. 131

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
The 5.12b rating is either a mistake or a typo in the Farris's guidebook -- 5.11c feels more like it. This is definitely one of the best and most fun routes at Red Wing. Initial dirty ledges but excellent climbing through two large roofs higher up. Apr 30, 2007
ferrells
  5.12a
ferrells  
  5.12a
A great, non-painful route to do every time you're in the perfect crimb area, and the best roof route at the crag.
This route was a lot harder to on-sight six years ago when all the best holds weren't covered in chalk. About as hard as Work Ethic, Longing for Miss Adonis, or Kelly's Arete, and buckets of fun. It if ends up consensus 11c, I'll be a little surprised. Maybe climbers are just stronger on the steep than on the technical these days? Oct 25, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11d
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11d
Probably you are right about the steep versus the technical. I thought it was way easier than Kelly's Arete, and Miss Adonis is kind of a one move wonder so it's hard to compare. It's been a number of years since I did Work Ethic so it's probably not a fair comparison coming from me. Oct 26, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
Guys, Advanced Birding seems to me a number grade easier than Perfect Sex, which is just to the left of it. In Farris's book they're both rated 12b. One of these ratings is off. Oh well, just numbers...

Awesome route nevertheless. Oct 30, 2007
Darin Limvere
  5.11c
Darin Limvere  
  5.11c
Perfect Sex is a pretty solid 12b for redwing. I'm terrible on steep stuff and Advance Birding didn't feel very 12 to me... I would agree with kris. One of my favorites on the dark side. It's wierd, because the top of the route is so good that you completely forget about the bottom when you're clipping the chains. Oct 30, 2007
Sean Foster
  5.12a
Sean Foster  
  5.12a
Just found my way to Advanced Birding this season. I'm a solid 11 climber and this climb is just a little out of my reach after a few tries. My take on the rating is that its a 12 for those that aren't 12 climbers yet and an 11 for those that are. I'm psyched to have it as a project this year and look forward to the day I feel like I can downgrade it! Not yet though... beautiful climb (once you're past the sandy start). Jul 4, 2011
Dreez  
I think its harder than Chinese Freedom, so 12a Sep 12, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
Et tu, Dreez, contra me? Dang :) Sep 12, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11d
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11d
Well, maybe Chinese Freedom is 11a. :)

Gorny I am with you on this one. Chinese Freedom took me 3 sessions back in the day, and in the same era of my life, Advanced Birding took 2 tries.

Whatever. All opinions are duly noted, and all are of equal value (ie. worthless). Sep 12, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
Ha ha! This is fun. I hope this keeps going.

Well, if Cyclops can be 5.12a then, I guess, so can Advanced Birding. But that would bump Kelly's Arete and Perfect Sex to 5.12c neighborhood. Sep 12, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11d
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11d
Everyone knows Minnesota is soft Kris.

Plus, didn't I just say that your opinion is worthless? Read my comment above more carefully. Sep 12, 2011
Kris Gorny

  5.11c
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c
Oh, I know it is worthless. But worthless can still be fun. After all, climbers are "conquistadors of the useless", so when we don't have a conquista going, exchange of useless opinions is a viable option.

Come to remember, what bothered me about Advanced Birding was the Farris's rating of 5.12b, the same as for the neighboring Perfect Sex. 5.12a probably does not seem so out of place. Sep 12, 2011
A.J. Christnovich
La Crosse, WI
  5.11d
A.J. Christnovich   La Crosse, WI
  5.11d
I would consider myself to be a 5.11 climber that can occasionally get a 5.12. I always try to climb this when I am in the area as well as Chinese freedom. I think these two climbs are at the same level of difficulty with different emphasized styles. No matter the ratings, jump on the thing and have a blast. Nov 2, 2011
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.11a
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
  5.11a
Super fun and fluid! Lots of rest spots so that is helpful for sending when you've drained yourself on the winter wall. Mar 4, 2015
Bolt over the first roof is badly bent (kinda flattened). May 28, 2018

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