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Routes in Perfect Crimb Area

Advanced Birding S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crank-n-Go-Go S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Demystification S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Don't Mean Nothin' T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gear Fear T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hateful Pleasures T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lacuna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Hand Jam S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Perfect Crimb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pulldown Menu S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Technical Difficulties S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vice Squad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 425 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Follow three bolts on somewhat sandy/dirty climbing to the base of a dihedral crack to the right of the roof. Place nuts in the crack and cruise to the two bolt anchor. Be sure to bring gear as you are looking at a ground fall from the top if you don't place any. The upper crack takes good gear and goes at about 5.7. The bottom face climbing is forgetable but the crack is a lot of fun.
  • RCM&W #88, p. 131.

Location

Hateful Pleasures lies immediately to the right of the large roof.

Protection

3 bolts at the bottom, nuts at the top. Small cams might also be useful. The two anchors are spread out a bit, long slings might be helpful for setting up a top rope anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.

Photos

Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
  5.9-
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
  5.9-
Great lead! The crack is great. This is great intro for a aspiring trad climber as you can stem and get hands free placements for the gear in the top.

Bring the larger size nuts (BD ~7 to 13)
Optionally bring BD C3 #1 & #2, and BD C4 #0.4 & #0.5

The anchor bolts are far apart and 2ft slings make a nice anchor. Jul 18, 2010
Bobby Marko
Seattle, WA
Bobby Marko   Seattle, WA
This has new anchors with chains and carabiners so you no longer need slings for your anchor. Sep 10, 2011
Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.8
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.8
Fun climb, but this would probably go at 5.6 if were at devils lake!! Nov 5, 2012
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
devil's lake is the most badass climbing spot -- nay, destination! -- in the world. it's like ceuse meets hard grit. totally. Nov 6, 2012

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