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Routes in Super Slab

Boltaneer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast Action S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Sail S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oreo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 4,614 total, 33/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jul 4, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Airy, exposed and fun climbing on the left edge of the Super Slab wall. Highly photogenic. Bolt spacing is a bit wider than more modern sport routes this the route offers a rewarding mental experience for those stepping up to the challenge.

Location

The left edge/arete of the Super Slab Wall

Protection

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Climbed most of the stuff at the Balcony, then finished on this. It's far and a away the best climb I did at Rito that day -- looking forward to trying more. It was also stiffer at the grade and thrilling. Perhaps I missed the 5.7 beta, but I thought it was harder than 5.8. It had sections requiring not power, but technique with thoughtful and at times tenuous body positioning & movement. Agreed it's heady, largely thanks to the bolt job, but that just makes is better! Well done. Aug 29, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.8+
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.8+
Long and chossy. Bolt spacing felt OK to me, but the climbing was a little bit of a bummer. Lots of loose rock - keep people out of the fall line of this route, and have belayer wear a helmet. OK route, but if you are up for it, skip this one and climb the other three on this wall. Jun 12, 2017
Eric A.
  5.8+
Eric A.  
  5.8+
Long, fun route. Not difficult but not exactly a walk in the park either.

A little bit of sketchy movement going for the second bolt but felt well-protected after that. The only slightly run-out section was the easiest stretch of the wall and full of no hand rest points. There were 9 bolts when I climbed so not sure if the amount of protection has increased since the previous comments. May 8, 2016
djkyote
  5.8 PG13
djkyote  
  5.8 PG13
What Lance said. Also, I feel that bolting like this for potential 20' wippers on chossy conglomerate is irresponsible. And the anchors are through a single cobble. The cobble looks relatively good, but still.

Overwise, a great line. Just be comfortable leading 10s. Oct 12, 2015
Finn Foster
  5.8+
Finn Foster  
  5.8+
Amazing route. I rate it 5.8+ just becasue it is run-out and very heady. The moves are 5.7/+ , but very fun and the clips are easy. If you can conquer your inner fears of falling on slab, you will LOVE what this route does for you mentally. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Oct 12, 2015
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Very fun route with good exposure and length. Could use another couple bolts, but should be safe with a careful belayer. I think a solid 5.8 leader would be fine on this as there is really only one 5.8 move between the second and third bolts. Top overhang move is fun too.

Sadly the weather got really bad as I was leading it and we couldn't do Clast Action to the right, which also looks great. Mar 25, 2013
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
This route was fun but a little run out for a 5.8 leader (if you don't have a good head). There are some loose blocks on the arete so tread lightly 3/4 of the way up. The clip anchors at the top are getting worn down. Maybe due to the amount its climbed or perhaps people are top roping trough the anchors. Please add draws to the anchor to save the clips. Aug 15, 2010
lance hadfield
tijeras
  5.8-
lance hadfield   tijeras
  5.8-
this is only a 5.7 to people solid on 5.10 if it had twice the bolts so you would not break your legs it might be the 5 star route it could be to the people at the 5.8 grade. Jun 15, 2010
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Agreed, first bolt isn't an issue here. May 5, 2008
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
I believe Gary Clark bolted this route. Crux move is 8. Route mostly 5.7. Moving to first bolt no problem. Crux is between bolts 2 and three. A move near top also an 8. Oct 8, 2006