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Routes in Super Slab

Boltaneer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast Action S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Sail S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oreo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Gary Clark
Page Views: 891 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Clark's guide says of "Oreo", "Hard moves at bottom and top, softer sweet stuff in between" and that's quite accurate. Thin moves to the first bolt if you go straight at it or start right-ish and move over to the bolt. Then 5.8-5.9ish monster jugs through the middle to a thin roof/bulge to finish.
The Foley "Taos Rock" book suggests to stem the start using the right wall and then to grab the chains for the finish--neither of which is necessary. For the chains-clip, just go a bit further and grab the right edge of the Super Slab wall.

Location

"Oreo" is the right-most route on the Super Slab. There is a belay bolt on the wall to the right at ground-level. It seems a bit far from the Super Slab wall but makes for a good dog (and kids) tether point.

Protection

8 bolts to chains with steel carabiners.
skelldify
  5.10
skelldify  
  5.10
Hardest start of any route on this wall, also the most sustained. Sep 19, 2015