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Routes in Super Slab

Boltaneer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clast Action S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Sail S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oreo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 3,061 total, 22/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Long route, as are all of the routes on Super Slab. Some sequency moves off the deck lead to some easy climbing through the less than vertical slab in the middle. The crux hits you at the overhang, where the number of holds diminish a the rock gets more steep and sequency. An enjoyable route.

Location

Second route in from the right end of super slab.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors.
Excellent climb! I think this is one of the best in the area. Great movement that is consistent and thoughtful from start to finish. Fun and well protected crux.

Get on this climb!

A 60 meter rope will work just fine on this. Jun 12, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
J. Albers wrote:Just thought I would mention that in one of the photos above, the leader has their leg BADLY behind the rope. That is the surest way to get really hurt on a sport route.
Thanks for your concern, J. From climbing with and frequently, I know these two are well aware of the rope position when it's crucial (i.e. when they're above the last piece or bolt on lead). But there are times when climbers momentarily slip around the rope when it's less crucial. (such is the case in the photo you mention.) You're right, though, it's important to keep people aware of the rope position when they're leading. Especially if they're not wearing a helmet!

It's a good thing to point this out to less experienced leaders lest they have to learn the hard way via the school of hard knocks. Pun intended. I've often seen leaders with their leg behind the rope and it scares me to see that even if it's just for a moment. Jul 9, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9
Just thought I would mention that in one of the photos above, the leader has their leg BADLY behind the rope. That is the surest way to get really hurt on a sport route. Jul 9, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
Last fall we witnessed a big fall on this route in about the same area where the leader sorta hip-checked the wall down below the bulge before coming to a stop. The fall appeared to be way bigger than it should have been considering where the leader was in relation to her last protection bolt. It appeared the belayer may have had some extra slack out and was also pulled up a bit. It's a long route and having that much rope in service means for a longer, but softer, fall.
I don't recall ever feeling run-out on this route but maybe there's a decent space between the 6th and 7th bolt?
I hope the leader that fell this weekend recovers quickly! Jul 7, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Excellent climb! Quite long and very enjoyable. Great views from the top too. I may be a little light on the rating for the crux moves, but the holds are sooo big and the vast majority of the climb is certainly not 5.10! A couple of moves off the ground lead to much easier "cruiser" climbing all the way to the roof. Need to use a 200 foot rope on this one. Jul 1, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Nice climb and popular. Oct 8, 2006