PRINT: Rock Climb Super Arete, El Rito

Super Arete

5.8, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 186 votes
FA: Gary Clark
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Super Slab

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning Details

Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

Airy, exposed and fun climbing on the left edge of the Super Slab wall. Highly photogenic. Bolt spacing is a bit wider than more modern sport routes this the route offers a rewarding mental experience for those stepping up to the challenge.

Location

The left edge/arete of the Super Slab Wall

Protection

9 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Phil dancing up the Super Arete

The position and exposure on the route are wild.

This is the Super Slab shot from the top of The Balcony.

Josh cruising up early in the morning

Start on the arete and follow it all the way up and break right just before the chains.

Unknown climber

Rachael moving up to more buckets on Super Arete. May 3, 2008.

Cody enjoying the dance up Super Arete on a crispy morning in May, 2008.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM

5.8

I believe Gary Clark bolted this route. Crux move is 8. Route mostly 5.7. Moving to first bolt no problem. Crux is between bolts 2 and three. A move near top also an 8. Oct 8, 2006

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT

5.7

Agreed, first bolt isn't an issue here. May 5, 2008

lance hadfield
tijeras

5.8-

this is only a 5.7 to people solid on 5.10 if it had twice the bolts so you would not break your legs it might be the 5 star route it could be to the people at the 5.8 grade. Jun 15, 2010

Dean Cool
Boulder, CO

This route was fun but a little run out for a 5.8 leader (if you don't have a good head). There are some loose blocks on the arete so tread lightly 3/4 of the way up. The clip anchors at the top are getting worn down. Maybe due to the amount its climbed or perhaps people are top roping trough the anchors. Please add draws to the anchor to save the clips. Aug 15, 2010

Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY

5.8

Very fun route with good exposure and length. Could use another couple bolts, but should be safe with a careful belayer. I think a solid 5.8 leader would be fine on this as there is really only one 5.8 move between the second and third bolts. Top overhang move is fun too.

Sadly the weather got really bad as I was leading it and we couldn't do Clast Action to the right, which also looks great. Mar 25, 2013

Finn Foster

5.8+

Amazing route. I rate it 5.8+ just becasue it is run-out and very heady. The moves are 5.7/+ , but very fun and the clips are easy. If you can conquer your inner fears of falling on slab, you will LOVE what this route does for you mentally. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Oct 12, 2015

Eric A.

5.8+

Long, fun route. Not difficult but not exactly a walk in the park either.

A little bit of sketchy movement going for the second bolt but felt well-protected after that. The only slightly run-out section was the easiest stretch of the wall and full of no hand rest points. There were 9 bolts when I climbed so not sure if the amount of protection has increased since the previous comments. May 8, 2016

Andrew Ellis
Albuquerque, NM

5.8+

Long and chossy. Bolt spacing felt OK to me, but the climbing was a little bit of a bummer. Lots of loose rock - keep people out of the fall line of this route, and have belayer wear a helmet. OK route, but if you are up for it, skip this one and climb the other three on this wall. Jun 12, 2017

Tim Farkas
Albuquerque, NM

5.9

Climbed most of the stuff at the Balcony, then finished on this. It's far and a away the best climb I did at Rito that day -- looking forward to trying more. It was also stiffer at the grade and thrilling. Perhaps I missed the 5.7 beta, but I thought it was harder than 5.8. It had sections requiring not power, but technique with thoughtful and at times tenuous body positioning & movement. Agreed it's heady, largely thanks to the bolt job, but that just makes is better! Well done. Aug 29, 2017

Michael Parker
Belgrade, MT

5.8

This was an extremely fun route with really interesting moves right off the ground. The arete, coupled with the sloping ground, added a bit of welcomed exposure. I enjoyed the movement on the route and then it just kept going. I started to get concerned when I ran low on draws near the top, thankfully it had lowering biners on the anchor. Highly recommend this route to anyone in the area. Nov 28, 2017

Aaron Stromberg
Albuquerque, NM

This is bringing up a really old topic, but I'd like to share.
I've had two similar experiences with this climb where a 5.9 lead climber starts the route, only to get freaked out and come down. In both instances I offered to help and set the climb up so they could enjoy it. I really feel that adding a few bolts would benefit this climb, and open it up to the climbers at that grade. May 17, 2020

Alexandros Kazantzidis
College Station, TX

5.8

Although it might look a bit runout, you have bolts exactly where you'd want them.
Really good for the grade. May 17, 2023