Type: Sport, 200 ft
FA: Kevin Pogue
Page Views: 1,203 total · 8/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Start as for Mantle Dynamics by pulling the fun mantle move onto the gigantic chicken head. Clip another bolt or two and veer right following the numerous bolts through a series of fun, positive moves in dishes and depressions in the rock.

Near the top, continue on easy third class terrain to the some anchors where you will need two ropes to get down or two raps with one rope using the Mantle Dynamics anchors.

If you don't feel like pushing out through the easy finish or you only have one rope, you can traverse horizontally to the right clipping a lone bolt and the anchors atop the 5.7 hand crack route (Handy) or move left to the anchors for Mantle Dynamics. A single 60m will get you down from either set of alternate anchors.

Protection

24+ bolts

Photos

Zeb Kenyon
Holladay, UT
Zeb Kenyon   Holladay, UT
I only counted 25 bolts, or should I say lost count after 25, was it recently retro-bolted? It did seem a bit run out in spots. . . Jul 3, 2006
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
I counted 24 bolts, but, I think Kevin says 25 clips in another description. So, maybe 24 plus the anchors.
Note: you can rappel to Mantle Dynamics then 100 feet rap to the ground from that anchor. Jul 5, 2006
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
This route description kinda lacks... How about:
Start as for Mantle Dynamics by pulling the fun mantle move onto the gigantic chicken head. Clip another bolt or two and veer right following the numerous bolts through a series of fun, positive moves in dishes and depressions in the rock. Near the top if you don't feel like clipping bolts through some nearly third-class terrain, you can traverse horizontally to the right clipping a lone bolt and the anchors atop the 5.7 hand crack route or move left to the anchors for Mantle Dynamics. A single 60m will get you down from either set of alternate anchors. Sep 7, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
After the fun traverse moves this ones really easy. Wished I would have thought about going to anchors as Jason suggested as going to the top just adds another rap. Oct 6, 2011
Dan Mathews
  5.9+
Dan Mathews  
  5.9+
I thought it was a little easier than Mantle Dynamics. Aug 28, 2014