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Continental Crust
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 30
votes
Routes in Comp Rock - East Face
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Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mantle Dynamics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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MK ultra (aka Mein Comp) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Pogue |
| Page Views: | 2,163 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jul 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Start as for Mantle Dynamics by pulling the fun mantle move onto the gigantic chicken head. Clip another bolt or two and veer right following the numerous bolts through a series of fun, positive moves in dishes and depressions in the rock.
Near the top, continue on easy third class terrain to the some anchors where you will need two ropes to get down or two raps with one rope using the Mantle Dynamics anchors.
If you don't feel like pushing out through the easy finish or you only have one rope, you can traverse horizontally to the right clipping a lone bolt and the anchors atop the 5.7 hand crack route (Handy) or move left to the anchors for Mantle Dynamics. A single 60m will get you down from either set of alternate anchors.
Near the top, continue on easy third class terrain to the some anchors where you will need two ropes to get down or two raps with one rope using the Mantle Dynamics anchors.
If you don't feel like pushing out through the easy finish or you only have one rope, you can traverse horizontally to the right clipping a lone bolt and the anchors atop the 5.7 hand crack route (Handy) or move left to the anchors for Mantle Dynamics. A single 60m will get you down from either set of alternate anchors.
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