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Routes in Comp Rock - East Face

Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mantle Dynamics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mein Komp T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 133 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Alternate finish to Handy. The crack is the one to the right of the uppermost bush visible on the face from the base. There are two options for getting there:

1. From the top of the Hand(y) crack, traverse right, try to avoid getting covered in sap bushwhacking past the pine tree, and head up a dirty, mossy finger crack. Unpleasant but well protected.
2. From the first bolt on Handy, traverse right and up on 5.7-5.8 dikes and slabs to the crack. Good climbing but totally unprotected for 30'.

The crack itself is more like a seam with tiny nut placements.

Protection

Small to micro nuts and cams. Two-bolt anchor in the alcove above, hard to see.

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