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Routes in Comp Rock - East Face

Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mantle Dynamics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mein Komp T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie
Page Views: 513 total, 10/month
Shared By: JF1 on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b

Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.

You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.

It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.

Location

This Route is on the due East face of the Comp Wall, 60 feet left of Trigger. So rather than taking the right to hike up to Handy and Mantle Dynamics, turn left for 60 feet and look for a right dihedral/pillar.
See Topo photo for more details.

Protection

Rack with bigger piece for pitch 1 (#4 camalot) and small gear for crux, small nuts key.
Pitch two three bolts to 2 .75 camalots, and one #2 to keep it a tiny bit spicy.

Photos

JF1
Las Vegas
 
JF1   Las Vegas
 
Added this route this summer Nov 27, 2013
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Very cool. Can't wait to check it out. When did you guys establish this one? Fairly recently? Oct 3, 2013