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Castle Rocks Gardening Club
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Comp Rock - East Face
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Already Been Done Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bathing Beauty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Castle Rocks Gardening Club T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Continental Crust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cryptic Vision S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Ridge Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handy T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humdinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mantel Dynamics S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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MK ultra T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: |
Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
| GPS: | 42.1359, -113.6689 |
| FA: | Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie |
| Page Views: | 1,756 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | JF1 on Oct 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b
Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.
You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.
It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.
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