All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Sphinx

Curse of the Pharaoh

Name: Curse of the Pharaoh
Rating: 0.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R

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Routes in The Sphinx

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Face the Sphynx T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R
	Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	I Sphynx There's a Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sphynx Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Upper East Face, Sphinx T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS:	39.95768, -105.28725
FA:	Unknown/Undocumented- FKA: T. Bubb/J. Haas 6/06
Page Views:	1,029 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

The Sphinx is also in the closure that typically includes crags closed 1 February to 31 July:

The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock

Description

This climb is perhaps 10 meters left of the obvious hanging chimney of 'Tomb of the Pharaoh.' The right-leaning crack climbs up onto a junky pedestal and then through a cruxy pull on to the wall- mostly due to poor rock. Continue to the top of the wall with some poor gear for the first 15 meters. After 32 meters, you arrive up top and belay from hand-to-fist sized trad gear.

We found an old WW-II era stamped pin in the route about 8 meters up that led us to believe that this route had a prior ascent, many long years ago. Lack of publication and the amount of junk where you might like to put feet begs the question whether it was aided or freed; either seems possible.

Largely it's irrelevant. It's not a very good route and this publication is more to let people know what it is--not to encourage people to bother with it.

Nonetheless, if you do you'll need to get off when done. Downclimb about 200' and to the North face to find a notch and bail anchor as for 'Half Man, Half Beast.'

Location

On the South face of the Sphinx, there are two very prominent right-leaning cracks that go from the ground to the summit, probably a little left (west) of the middle of the face. The right crack is Tomb of Pharaoh (a fun chimney with a gymnastic start) and the left is Curse of the Pharaoh.