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Routes in The Sphinx

A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Stefan Griebel and Alan Doak, March 2004
Page Views: 339 total · 2/month
Shared By: Stefan Griebel on Mar 30, 2004
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

Description [Edit]

This route is a 1-pitch variation to the Lower East Face route. The first 2 pitches are shared with the Lower East Face route.

P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.

P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!

P3, 5.11a - From the big tree, climb up the ramp with no pro (5.6s) on your left about 50'. The ramp seems to hang in the air a couple hundred feet above the ground, and the exposure as you go up this ramp is awesome! Traverse right on jugs to the base of a short, thin, overhanging crack. There is good gear at the base of the crack (.75" - 1"), and OK gear in the crack (blue/green aliens and/or small nuts). Fingertip-lieback and funky-stem up the crack (crux) to bigger holds and better gear. The crux is over, but the pumpiness isn't! Hang on a little bit longer and crank over the steepness to a restful hand traverse. Traverse right and belay at a tree as for P3 of the Lower East Face route.

To summit, keep traversing, and scramble up an obvious gully to the top. This is class 3 in Rossiter's book, but I would give it a class 4/5. If you stay roped, it is probably 2 pitches to the top.

To descend, downclimb the gully, and rock hop North into Shanahan Canyon.

Protection [Edit]

A single run of cams, and single set of nuts is plenty to get you up this route. Blue and Green Alien(s) very nice for the crux.

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