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Routes in The Sphinx

A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Unknown/Undocumented- FKA: T. Bubb/J. Haas 6/06
Page Views: 256 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closure Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climb is perhaps 10 meters left of the obvious hanging chimney of 'Tomb of the Pharaoh.' The right-leaning crack climbs up onto a junky pedestal and then through a cruxy pull on to the wall- mostly due to poor rock. Continue to the top of the wall with some poor gear for the first 15 meters. After 32 meters, you arrive up top and belay from hand-to-fist sized trad gear.

We found an old WW-II era stamped pin in the route about 8 meters up that led us to believe that this route had a prior ascent, many long years ago. Lack of publication and the amount of junk where you might like to put feet begs the question whether it was aided or freed; either seems possible.

Largely it's irrelevant. It's not a very good route and this publication is more to let people know what it is--not to encourage people to bother with it.

Nonetheless, if you do you'll need to get off when done. Downclimb about 200' and to the North face to find a notch and bail anchor as for 'Half Man, Half Beast.'

Location

On the South face of the Sphinx, there are two very prominent right-leaning cracks that go from the ground to the summit, probably a little left (west) of the middle of the face. The right crack is Tomb of Pharaoh (a fun chimney with a gymnastic start) and the left is Curse of the Pharaoh.

Protection

Cams to 4" and stoppers.

Photos

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