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Routes in The Sphinx

A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 379 total, 3/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 2, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closure Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.

P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!

The crux pitch. It's not obvious where to go, and it looks like there is very little pro. An easy ramp tempts one left, but avoid this temptation unless you want to climb A Sphinxter Says What?. Instead, move up and right from the belay to the base of a steep face. Then, follow "the line of least resistance" more or less straight up, ending the short pitch at a small tree. You can get pro in on this pitch, but at the start it appears unprotected and more difficult than 5.7. Choose your line carefully.

Now join the Upper East Face route, and romp 2 more pitches of easy slabs to the summit.

Location

Begin at the lowest point on the SE Face.

Protection

Standard Flatirons rack.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 X
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 X
Directly up from the tree was 5.8 with some questionable rock, very little protection (a #3 Camalot would have perhaps protected the exit moves), and is quite steep. If you fall, you will need med-evaced or a body recovery. Sep 16, 2014