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Lower East Face, Sphinx
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 1.6 from 8
votes
Routes in The Sphinx
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A Sphinxter Says What? T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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BFE Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curse of the Pharaoh T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Face the Sphynx T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R |
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Half Man, Half Beast T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Sphynx There's a Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lower East Face, Sphinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Pharaoh's Tomb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sphynx Not T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tiller, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Upper East Face, Sphinx T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 993 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Oct 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor Closure
Details
The Sphinx is also in the closure that typically includes crags closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock
The Goose
Goose Eggs
East Ridge
Mars Block
Nebel Horn
Tower of the Moon
Jamcrack Spire
The Pyramid
Incognito Crag
Devil's Thumb
Shadow Fax
Isolation Rock
Sunset Wall
Devil's Wing (W. Face)
The Matron
Lost & Found
The Sibling
Toddler Rock
Medusa Rock
Description
P1, 5.3ish - Climb from the base of the Sphinx up to a ledge system with trees and bushes. Traverse left.
P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!
The crux pitch. It's not obvious where to go, and it looks like there is very little pro. An easy ramp tempts one left, but avoid this temptation unless you want to climb A Sphinxter Says What?. Instead, move up and right from the belay to the base of a steep face. Then, follow "the line of least resistance" more or less straight up, ending the short pitch at a small tree. You can get pro in on this pitch, but at the start it appears unprotected and more difficult than 5.7. Choose your line carefully.
Now join the Upper East Face route, and romp 2 more pitches of easy slabs to the summit.
P2, 5.5ish - Climb up and into a cool chimney. Crank out of the chimney on your left, and belay at a large tree. Watch out for big loose rocks on this pitch!
The crux pitch. It's not obvious where to go, and it looks like there is very little pro. An easy ramp tempts one left, but avoid this temptation unless you want to climb A Sphinxter Says What?. Instead, move up and right from the belay to the base of a steep face. Then, follow "the line of least resistance" more or less straight up, ending the short pitch at a small tree. You can get pro in on this pitch, but at the start it appears unprotected and more difficult than 5.7. Choose your line carefully.
Now join the Upper East Face route, and romp 2 more pitches of easy slabs to the summit.
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