Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jason Haas, Tony Bubb 2006
Page Views: 355 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is the obvious chimney on the South face. Start below an overhanging section (crux) with big jugs and do some gymnastic moves to get into the chimney. From here, the route eases considerably but still has some good movement. Reach a pine tree about halfway up and either set up a belay or continue to the top of the formation, which can easily be done with a 70 meter rope. The start can be protected with small cams or nuts deep in the chimney, otherwise plan to do the crux without any pro.

To descend, walk towards the North face, then downclimb the east face for about 100ft. near this ridge to a notch on the North face. This is actually the top of 1/2 Man, 1/2 Beast. At this notch, rappel from webbing around a chockstone to the ground (35m).

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot. A long sling or two is helpful. 10a leaders might not like the start of this route- the gear is difficult to place and it would be a bad landing without it. Still, the holds are HUGE and secure. A 5.10 for 5.10+ leaders.

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