Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Red Slab

Desperado S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Impossible Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mantel Route, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Cornflakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playground S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pregnant Guppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Red Whine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Slab S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,542 total, 11/month
Shared By: Joey Faust on Jun 15, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Easy climbing until the roof. Great slab climb down low and then the crack up top. Small fingers are a plus. The line starts out the same as Pregnant Guppy, then move to the right over the roof. From there follow the small crack to the chains.

Protection

Small cams and nuts. Two bolted anchors up top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
  5.10d
Aaron Shields   Lehi, UT
  5.10d
This route made me wish my fingers were smaller. The thin stuff at the crux bled me while I tried to get more finger in the crack. You just have to deal with the tiny holds, trust your pro (or TR) and make the move. I would call this a 5.9+ climb with a 5.11 crux. Aug 30, 2012
Brian Koralewski
Springville, Utah
5.11a
Brian Koralewski   Springville, Utah
5.11a
Didn't use the arete, and didn't notice any loose rock. From a big hold just over the lip of the roof, went up & left to 2 crimpers (the upper one a real skinny fit that is hard to get the fingers in). Cranked on them, got the feet up to smear, then got a foot up onto the good hold. That move seemed about 11a, then one 10a move and the rest is 5.4. Aug 13, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I love this route! It's a trad climb but climbs like a sport climb. What I mean by that is that it protects with gear but you don't really need to do a whole lot of jamming or anything. The gear is solid, the holds thin, and the moves fun. Mar 31, 2008
Granger
  5.10d
Granger  
  5.10d
The only "good" hold immediately above the overhang includes a loose rock that happens to be wedged in just right; it spooked me pretty bad when I first reached for it. It's actually in _really_ good; we've tried to remove it and won't come out.

There's nothing else to get you over the lip except a crack that will allow a single finger, and a slick sloper up high. If you can't get it (and don't want to weight the rope), you can go along the left edge of the arete a few feet, then come back around. That feels like it makes the climb about an .8 or .9, however. Aug 30, 2006