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Routes in Red Slab

Desperado S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Impossible Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mantel Route, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Cornflakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playground S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pregnant Guppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Red Whine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Slab S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 2,204 total, 14/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on May 26, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The most difficult line up Red Slab, this fun route starts thin and ends thin. In between, there is an easy roof and somewhat-more-difficult roof.

Start directly under the first bolt (which is intimidating, but worth it). As you continue up the holds get bigger and you start breathing more easily.

Just before the roof is another thin section: staying to the right of the bolts is easier, but staying directly in the bolt line or a little left is thinner, slightly harder, and quite fun.

The well-protected roof itself is kind of tricky, but a willingness to commit on small holds will see it through.

Protection

9 bolts, bolted anchors.

Location

Second bolted line from the left on the "main" portion of Red Slab (this ignores the bolted line on the far left (Red Red Whine).

Photos

vanman798
5.10a
vanman798  
5.10a
Not sure how this can have an 5.11a rating when the Mantel Route has a 5.8. They aren't that much different really. So to me it's obvious this one is rated to high and Mantel is rated to low. It's just the start that is tough. Jul 13, 2015
AdamHardy
Provo, UT
AdamHardy   Provo, UT
Not too bad at the first; the opening moves are really fun. The real business starts at the top. Still a work in progress. Any beta for the crux at the top? I feel like a cheater resorting to the left edge. Oct 9, 2012
Canyon Copa  
 
Definitely my favorite route on the wall which may not be saying much. Tough start and finish. If you position your feet right, the crimps above the roof at top aren't too bad. May 29, 2012
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.10a/b
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.10a/b
Maybe I used the side holds up high but didn't think this one was an 11a. That could be bc I didn't look at the rating on here before doing it. I only had the '95 Ruckman guide. Fun start though. May 4, 2012
Brian Koralewski
Springville, Utah
  5.10c
Brian Koralewski   Springville, Utah
  5.10c
About 13 years ago, we noticed the new route and were trying it out, when a climber, identifying himself as "Coyote," came by & told us he had just bolted it; and that at the top, the left edge is off, yielding 11b (if we used that edge, it was 10b). I rate it 10c for the non-eliminate version. Dec 29, 2011
If you start true and climb it directly, the start is pretty darn tough. But the middle is REALLY mello. The upper crux isn't too bad. There are some bigish crimps up there. Just commit. Again, if you stay true at the top and don't grab the big side hold once over the roof, it adds some difficulty. Mar 12, 2009