Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Red Slab

Desperado S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Impossible Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mantel Route, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Cornflakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playground S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pregnant Guppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Red Whine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Slab S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 2,873 total, 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


69 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Red Red Whine is the left-most bolted route on the Red Slab. The enjoyable crux is turning the small roof and is what makes the climb. The crux requires balance (or long arms and legs). The rest of the route is slab climbing on positive edges.

Note that this route isn't Impossible Dream (5.10d), which isn't bolted and is a few feet left of Red Red Whine. I think the confusion arises because the Ruckman guide topo for the Red Slab shows Impossible Dream and the topo location for Impossible Dream looks just like Red Red Whine.

Protection

7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors. Not a great top rope because of sharp edges, but doable. However, the anchor probably isn't safely accessible from the top without a belay.
Bradly
 
Bradly  
 
Climb is easy with the exception of that roof. Took me several tries. With that exception, easy climb.
Sep 11, 2012
BJB
Texas
  5.8
BJB   Texas
  5.8
Like Granger I took the variation to the right and thought it was more of a low 10 roof, but the girl I was with followed went to the left before the roof and cruised up it. Apr 2, 2012
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.8
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.8
Hey, it's about as hard as Chicago Overhang. I agree with C. Knight; the rating is fine at 5.8 the sequence is just hard to hit exactly right. But the holds to make it 5.8 are all there...maybe we should go back to the days where 5.9 was the hardest and everything harder we called .9+

This is where Tristan inserts a joke about me being old enough to remember that time...sheesh! May 21, 2008
Granger
  5.9+
Granger  
  5.9+
I agree with Ryan. And the crux on this is harder than the one on "A Rose is a Rose".

What's cool about the overhang is that it's harder if you go up on the right of the overhang-bolt than if you climb across from the left. However, approaching the overhang is easier on the right of the bolts. Aug 30, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
The crux at the roof is dicey if you don't nail the sequence. I've climbed 5.10s with easier rooves. Without the roof, the climing is very easy. May 13, 2006