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Routes in Red Slab

Desperado S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Impossible Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mantel Route, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Cornflakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playground S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pregnant Guppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Red Whine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Slab S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Laycock, Mark Hadnot
Page Views: 1,533 total, 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A 5-bolt, easy route worth doing only if you've done everything else on the Red Slab and/or feel like getting away from the crowd.

Easy climbing on mossy, rough quartzite. The rock does have some interesting-looking pockets down low that you don't see elsewhere in the Rock Canyon quartzite.

Your rope may end up with a green tinge from dragging through the dry moss.

Rappel rather than lower due to the anchor.

Location

The route lies uphill from and to the south of the Red Slab proper. To get there, go to the right side of the Red Slab and then head west a bit. A steep slot will appear on your left. Head up the slot (south) and at the top of the slot bear left towards the wall. The route starts in a sort of hollow at the base of the wall (looks like some giant used a spoon and took a chunk out).

Protection

5 bolts to a weird anchor: two bolts and hangers, two swaged steel cables in a triangle supporting two hollow aluminum rap rings (you definitely don't want to lower from those).

Photos

Danny Cardoza
Provo, UT
  5.5
Danny Cardoza   Provo, UT
  5.5
Great climb! If there are tons of people on Red Slab and you don't want to venture further up the canyon for an easier climb, this is definitely for you. If you don't mind the crazy steep approach, that is. We avoided going back down the "slot" by veering left (when going north) around the large rock feature and following some deer trails to the alternate approach to the Ed and Terry wall. The slot is super steep and washed out, and if you're carrying any amount of gear is difficult to manage. Going around is probably a safer bet. Apr 26, 2013
Nate_801
St. George
 
Nate_801   St. George
 
I climbed this route this morning and it was still real mossy. Easy climb though! Also what is the route to the right about 15 feet? It seemed like a 5.6-7, 5 bolts to a double anchor. It was clean and a fun climb.

The approach sucked! Jun 25, 2012
Add Mark Hadnot in the FA along with Chris. May 12, 2009
Now you know how I felt trying to clean off the routes around mosstique. Mar 12, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I really like this climb for some reason... Yeah, there's a lot of moss and the climbing is really easy on big holds. But I think, actually, that the moss kind of gives more character to this climb. There are some neat holds, especially the big huecos down low. Not something you usually see on quartzite.

I did this climb several years ago and then soloed it last Thanksgiving Day. That was a cold one. That same day I also started cleaning a nice line to the left of this route, but gave up due to the enormous amount of brushing, blasting, scrubbing, and cleaning involved. SO much moss. The rock there was really nice, though. I soloed it on toprope and it was probably 5.6ish. I think another couple days of cleaning would be enough... May 12, 2008