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Routes in Red Slab

Desperado S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Impossible Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magical Mystery S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mantel Route, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Cornflakes S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Playground S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pregnant Guppy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Dwarf S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Red Whine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Slab S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,871 total · 17/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Jul 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is about in the middle of the slab just right of Mr. Cornflakes. At the base of the route is a large block (about 2.5 feet tall). You can use this to distinguish it from the many other bolted routes on the slab.

The crux comes in the middle of the route where you clip a bolt from an easy stance and then try to move up with little to no hands.

Protection

Eight bolts. Double bolt anchor with chains at the top.
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
As the name suggests, a mantle at the crux (in the middle of the route) helps a lot. Great moves, and fun climbing throughout. May 13, 2006
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.9+
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.9+
Very tricky crux. The last bolt is a good twenty feet from the chains, but it's a pretty easy climb up, but still best to be careful. Fun climb. The crux can be a little frustrating. Sep 7, 2008
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
  5.8
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
  5.8
It's nice to be excited on 5.8. And by excited I mean gripped out of my mind. Protection is plenty adequate, but low percentage move of the kind you just have to love on the most polished of polished quartzite... I love this route. Nov 29, 2008
This was the first route I led after moving to Utah. I had been climbing for a number of years in So. Cal. The crux really took some thought and reminded me of some of the slab routes on granite. Mar 12, 2009
BJB
Texas
  5.9+
BJB   Texas
  5.9+
The crux of this really took me by surprise. I had to stand there and look at the little holds on the side of the mantel, but after I commited to it it was really no problem. Not a good beginner lead. May 28, 2011
Greg Halliday
Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9-
Greg Halliday   Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9-
Good climb, but I would have to say it's harder than a lot of other 5.8s. The only reason is that most people don't think to use some of the moves you need on this climb. I thought that it was a little balancey for the grade. Once you've done it, it sure could be 5.8 and maybe less, but onsight, not so much. Two examples (although both crack climbs and probably not generalizable): Seibernetics and 30 Seconds Over Potash are both easier to onsight. Oct 18, 2011
ratings are based on physical difficulty, not technique. the rating is proper. climb smart. what better way to build your good route-reading/finding skills and sound technique than on an fun climb like this that makes you think? Oct 20, 2011
Greg Halliday
Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9-
Greg Halliday   Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9-
You're right about climbs being rated by physical difficulty, not technique. I think I was just feeling sorry for myself getting kicked around a bit by a 5.8. Nov 6, 2011
Dakota Belliston
Spanish Fork, UT
  5.8
Dakota Belliston   Spanish Fork, UT
  5.8
The routes on this wall were pretty confusing. I Believe I started to combine this route with the route to the right. ~ 3-4 bolts up is your obvious crux. Move seams a little harder then a 5.9 move because you don't have any hand holds. Take your time. It's all there. Feb 18, 2014
vanman798
5.9+
vanman798  
5.9+
I've climbed this a number of times and every time I think this isn't a 5.8. Then today I looked it up on MP and I see the consensus is putting at 5.9. That seems much better. Just to get the consensus a little higher I gave it 5.9+, but 5.9 is about right. It's called the Mantel Route as mantelling is the key to getting through the no-hands section. Jul 13, 2015

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