Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Johnny Duran, Tim Kuss, & Jim DiNapoli, 1984|
|Page Views:||1,155 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionPer Ben Griffin:
I did this route last summer, spring, or fall. I really don't remember. You climb the choss gully to climbers left of Angel Dust, then head up to a giant bolt. It is hard to see the bolt from the ground, but it is up there. The next piece of pro is a beaten in copperhead that looks like it is from the dinosaur era. Climb over the overhang and traverse right which is run out for the leader and follower, to another dirty crack. Then, the leader climbs up the crack and does a sketchy traverse out left to the sick, overhanging, hands to fist crack. I thought I was going to be the first person to climb this route in years, but when I got to the crack it was perfectly clean. It is an incredible crack pitch at East Animas, with its exposure and sustained crack climbing. The crack is much cleaner than Slave's Crack, which receives a lot more traffic.
The FA was by Johnny Duran. He showed it to Jim DiNapoli in 1984 and gave DiNapoli the lead. After yo-yo'ing the overhanging crack out of sheer fright, DiNapoli flamed out turning the top, Duran finished the lead, DiNapoli finished on second.
In those days, Duran used to regularly do the Watch Crystal wearing nothing but gym shorts, a chalk bag, a Walkman, and a rack with one stopper. The stopper was to put in at the belay to bring his GF up.
LocationThis is on the left side of the Byrd's area.
ProtectionStandard East A rack.
Per Ben Griffin
This route can now be done in one pitch. There are now 3 bolts protecting the face of this rock climb and two bolts for a belay. The route still feels pretty adventuresome.