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Routes in Byrd's

Angel Dust T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B-Team Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Byrd's Classic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freebase T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Justice for Rodney T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 444 total, 3/month
Shared By: AJ Onsight on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Classic E.A. climbing. first crux .11- hard crux on face above .12-

Location

To the right of Byrd's Classic.

Protection

#13 BD Stopper for first crux; you'll see it.

Photos

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Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
Highly recommended. The final traverse over the void is sustained, airy, and excellent.

There are three cruxes IMO. Not sure where the #13 would go in the first, I think the bolts alone are adequate. For the middle crux, I would bring along a blue or yellow Alien-size to protect the moves before 3rd (?) bolt. If you are solid at the grade, you might not need it, though. Also, bring some full length runners for a couple clips.

The third crux is the final traverse right. I don't think there is a 5.12 move, but it's sustained and you'll be pumped before you even get to it. Milk the rests....

All in all, this climb was much better than I expected and a must-do for the visiting 5.12 climber. Nov 5, 2010