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Routes in Byrd's

Angel Dust T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
B-Team Arete S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Byrd's Classic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freebase T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Justice for Rodney T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scrubby Oaks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 305 total, 2/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - start up the corner, move right and follow the broken crack system to a bolted anchor near a large tree.

Variation: towards the top of the pitch, take the offwidth on the right and finish at the same anchor.

P2 - climb the smaller crack on the right with a small tree in it.

Variation - climb the offwidth on the left which rejoins the standard line.

Location

This route starts in a right-facing corner a little to the left of Byrd's Classic.

Protection

Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot. Bring a big cam if doing either of the OW variations.

Photos

TrevorRoulstin
Durango, Co
 
TrevorRoulstin   Durango, Co
 
I think the first big flake on this route is sketchy at best. At the top of it, I found it quite unnerving when a solid hand jam literally bent the flake outward! Tread lightly, my friends. Oct 30, 2015
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Pitch 2 is pretty fun and worth doing at least once. Wish it were longer. Better than pitch 1 in my opinion. We continued up above pitch 2 for a 3rd pitch. Wide hands through an overhanging bulge. Felt 5.10-ish (PG-13). Aug 23, 2014
Patrick Yarbrough
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Patrick Yarbrough   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
The hardest part of this climb is probably just getting off the ground. Otherwise there are some very fun moves for being 5.7. I'd say it's worth doing. Apr 12, 2014
Nolan Robertson  
  5.7
Think stembox. Jun 3, 2013
CJK
Northern, NM
  5.8-
CJK   Northern, NM
  5.8-
Just climbed this route, and the start is not 5.7, but the rest of it is for sure. Try both variations to see what you think, the OW variation is not 5.7. Jun 3, 2013
Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
Whaaaat?! This climb is freaking AWESOME!!! A classic for sure! May 14, 2012
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.7
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.7
Pile came down today.... Kevin and Chosspector were right :) I pulled off a few hundred pounds of rock today while seconding. The giant block first shifted under bodyweight (it appeared to be a solid jug that anyone else leading the route would have yarded on) then came down under a few pounds of pressure as I rappelled. The remaining crack appears suspect (i.e. wobbly). Jan 31, 2012
Xander Wyckoff
Tucsies
Xander Wyckoff   Tucsies
What do the corner and the offwidth go at? They don't feel like 5.7.... May 30, 2011
chosspector
San Juans, CO
chosspector   San Juans, CO
This route is an ever-loosening pile. Save the effort and do Byrd's Classic instead. Apr 17, 2011
Lee Frazer
Durango, Colorado
Lee Frazer   Durango, Colorado
Really fun route. I'd call the start harder than 5.7 though, especially for short people. Sep 19, 2009
Kevin Sainio
Durango, CO
  5.7
Kevin Sainio   Durango, CO
  5.7
Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one. Jun 20, 2008
Jeramiah Paylor
Westminster, CO
 
Jeramiah Paylor   Westminster, CO
 
There is also a line to the right of the corner doing a 5.8 finger crack variation. Sep 21, 2007