Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Annadonia Area

Annadonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campinini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cookie Crumble S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool for Cats S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danger High Boltage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dirty Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
ESP S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Femme Fatale S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freebase T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Future, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking for Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micro Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out Of Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rock-a-holics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Low For Zero S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Willies TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,032 total, 7/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED, thankfully. I'll leave this for historical reasons.

In general, I would usually rather be climbing even the worst routes than not climbing at all. ESP, however, is so bad that it is actually worse to be climbing it than to not be climbing at all. I've been an obsessive, passionate climber for almost ten years, and when I got down from this route, I said aloud, "I don't know if I ever want to climb again." It was bad enough that, for a moment, the entire lifestyle and activity felt like a mistake. Luckily, I shook the sensation off, but the aftertaste remained.
Before I was assigned the route, I listed a few detractors below in the comments. With sandy chossiness, ugly graffiti, dwarfish length, awkward moves, rusty bolts, dangerous anchors, awful position, and seepage, this route has it all. Alternatively, you might consider the length to be a plus - at least it doesn't last all that long. Woe be to Red Wing and Minnesota, that they harbor this route.

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
Dude i was totally wanting to climb this just to see how bad it was. Oct 4, 2012
ferrells  
 
Thanks to whoever chopped this route! Oct 27, 2011
Kris Gorny    
Now I'm curious about this monstrocity... May 17, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Yes this climb truly blows. However, it's my opinion that for every Ying there is a Yang. For every Living All Over Me there is an E.S.P. to counter it. A shame, but is it? To appreciate the 4 star climbs must there not be a bomb or two? Dec 29, 2009
ferrells  
 
Truly Abysmal.

After living at Smith for a couple of years, I look back now at routes like this (and others like user friendly), and wonder why someone doesn't chop it.

It wouldn't survive at most areas in the west, and degrades the overall value of the crag. There are quite a lot of great routes at Red Wing, but this isn't one of them. It has going for it:
1)Bad Position - It's like climbing in a guano-soaked sweat sock.
2)Crumbly, Miserable Rock
3)Spray Paint at the Bottom
4)Awkward Moves on Sandy Edges
5)Rusty as Crap Bolts

Someone put it out of its misery. Dec 29, 2009