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Routes in Annadonia Area

Annadonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campinini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cookie Crumble S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool for Cats S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danger High Boltage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dirty Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
ESP S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Femme Fatale S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freebase T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Future, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking for Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micro Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out Of Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rock-a-holics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Low For Zero S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Willies TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,473 total, 25/month
Shared By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

A tough start into some really good powerful climbing. The final moves are pretty tough too.

Location

This route is about 10 feet to the left of Looking for Lust.

Protection

Bring a 60m rope and 8 draws.

Photos

rooooock
Oakland, California
 
rooooock   Oakland, California
 
I'm also interested to know where this route goes at the top exactly. I'm not sure what the 12 finish is, and I assume the 11 finish is to use the bolt directly under the chains and use holds to the left of that bolt and above that bolt on the way to the chains (the line I took was slightly to the left of the line between the bolts and the chains. I felt the moves were tough, but once I figured out the beta, it was doable. Jun 24, 2014
Eric Swanson
Plymouth
Eric Swanson   Plymouth
Can confirm that the route goes on gear. Not too bad until the last 10-15 feet. Bring a big cam or two for the huecos at the top. Fun. Nov 6, 2011
Does anyone have any information about the .12a finish that the guidebook mentions? Is that follow the right side of the nose the whole way until it ends and then traversing back left to the anchors?

Edit: I must be missing something on the crux at the top (should be 11a/b version), since the last 10 feet of Annadonia feels balls harder than the entire 50 or 60 feet of Chinese Freedom. As far as I can tell I seem to be following the guidebook's line. Aug 3, 2010
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
For climbers breaking into 11's careful at the top crux its a doozy. Jun 2, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11b
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11b
route goes on gear. small nuts, singles of #4, #1 camalots; doubles of orange TCU. few 24" runners for gear below the roof. Oct 11, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11-
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11-
Well, I am not sure who, what, why, or when, but I know where. All I know is I did the full route once, on September 21, 2003, and have not been on it in it's entirety since that day, but I bouldered the bottom of it summer 2006 and it seemed a *lot* easier. There was a very shallow crimp for 2 fingers that was essentially the crux of the route right off the ground in 2003. Now it's a deep pocket, see Darin's comment above. Other than that, I have no idea. I have a hard time believing anyone would purposefully drill it out, but that's just me... Dec 5, 2007
ferrells  
 
I'm curious about this chipped hold issue. The first day I climbed at Red Wing, about six ago, the guy that I climbed with pointed to Annadonia and told me that someone had come "in the last couple of years" and chipped a new hold into the start (Buddy Tangolous). One of the holds definitely looks chiseled, but I don't think the other holds were touched. My guess is that the chipping was an isolated incident, and that it happened more than six years ago. Anybody have any ideas to the contrary? Anybody know who did it? Dec 4, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11-
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11-
That's what I thought. That's too bad. Nov 27, 2007
Many believe the two finger pocket was drilled out pretty hard. bummer. The feet have gotten greasier though. Maybe it equals it out. I remember the pocket being a full pad two finger. Now I can get 3/4 of my finger in it......? Oct 30, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11-
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11-
Did this climb a long time ago and then bouldered the bottom again last summer. Either I have gotten a lot better (possible) or the bottom is a lot easier now than it was then (probable). Does anyone know if it's been modified or has the traffic just worn the patina off making that holds deeper and better? Jun 1, 2007