Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Annadonia Area

Annadonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campinini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cookie Crumble S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool for Cats S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danger High Boltage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dirty Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
ESP S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Femme Fatale S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freebase T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Future, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking for Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micro Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out Of Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rock-a-holics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Low For Zero S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Willies TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 254 total, 2/month
Shared By: randy baum on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Quiet Desperation climbs a faint arete located thirty feet to the right of Femme Fatale and twenty feet to the left of Stylin/Out of Control/Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars.

Quiet is, ahem, a desperate, little bugger. The route gets going on the first move, a big throw off a good right hand crimp and an ok left hang crimp/pinch to either a two-finger pocket or a crimp. This move is easier for tall folks. From the pocket, a tenuous move deposits the climber at a rest on a nice edge. Getting to the next rest, two huecos, requires lots of tension and precision. This is the physical crux of the route. After resting at the huecos, tricky moves lead to the last bolt, which is a little farther away than most would like. This is the redpoint/mental crux. From the last bolt, it's Red Wing sand jugs to the top. With desperate moves down though and some tenuous cruxing up high, crisp temps are extremely helpful for sending this rig.

Protection

bolts

Photos

KurtH
  5.13a
KurtH  
  5.13a
This route is surprisingly awesome. Very unique movement throughout the climb. Jul 25, 2014
I know all you sinewy badasses like this route, but it's pretty tough for me to get psyched up for it. Painful crimps! I managed all the moves but one on an attempt in maybe 2006, and it was brutal. It's not terribly sustained, but I thought the crux moves could constitute the crux of a 13a.
Maybe I'll try to do them openhanded when I head back - it'll be harder, but at least it won't hurt as much. Jul 11, 2010
Tyler Hoffart sent this the other day, so that list got a bit bigger. Oct 24, 2009
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
I believe that this climb has been done clean by less than 5 people (I only know of Jeff E, Chris H, and Joel A). Sep 22, 2009