Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 9,060 total · 59/month
Shared By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


178 Opinions

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Description

One of my favorites at Red Wing. Its' the longest route on Barn Bluff. Once you get past the first 20ft of lie back flake its smooth sailing on big jugs.

Location

This route is the farthest to the right on the Annadonia wall. From the parking lot trail take a right when you see the American flag and keep going until you see the flake.

Protection

Bring at least a 50m rope. 9 Bolts to the anchors. Please use your own gear for top rope.

Photos

Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9-
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9-
The anchors have been moved about 10 feet lower, eliminating the last two bolts, and some dirty chossy climbing. The 2nd to last bolt is about 5 inches below the new anchor. Jun 6, 2006
the new anchor station has created a dangerous sharp rope groove. Id recomend extending the anchor down another 4 feet for toprope sessions. Jul 1, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.9 PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.9 PG13
I second Josh. The old anchors were positioned better. With the new ones it's impossible to avoid rope thrashing on a sharp edge. Nov 28, 2007
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
  5.9
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
  5.9
Climbed this on July 8th, 2008. This is a great route, deffinately my new favorite at Barn Bluff.
I replaced one of the carabiners at the anchor due to it being worn about halfway through on one end. A good reminder for me to always bring a couple spare biners and not to use them for belaying. Jul 9, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.9
goes on gear. medium cams, nuts. watch out for rotten rock up top. Oct 25, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.9 PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.9 PG13
Sorry BBourgeois, but I disagree. As much as I do appreciate replacing the crappy anchors, I still think the choice of the new anchor location is pretty poor given the ledge directly below it. I also won't bring the hammer to modify one of the best routes at RW to accommodate the arbitrary anchor placement. With time though, and enough people being lowered, a groove will probably form in the rock and there won't be a problem. Slow lowering may be sufficient to avoid the risk of rope damage. Another option would be to rap but nobody ever does that. May 19, 2010
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.9
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.9
A great climb for Red Wing. Nice and long, almost like two different climbs in one. And yes grooves are beginning to form already. Oct 3, 2010
Landstrykar  
 
We climbed this last weekend and to mitigate the rope drag, we for one belayed from a good 15 back from the wall, and also stuck a sweatshirt under the rope up where it lays across the rock. It was bad news for my buddy's sweatshirt, but at least it put our minds at ease about the rope. Sep 21, 2011
Great climb - everyone loved it! 2 good sized chunks of rock, however, popped from behind the flake yesterday while someone was climbing - between bolts 1 and 2. Be careful of the third chunk as that looks like it could pop soon, too! The larger piece that fell was about the size of a small backpack. Be cautious of falling rock when belaying/on the ground! Apr 22, 2014
Raina S
 
Raina S  
 
Super fum crack. Some footholds on the crack are really slippery now and takes creativity to get past it. Top anchor a little rusty, someone with more knowledge should take a look and make sure it's safe. Apr 1, 2017