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|Shared By:||Andy Freeman on Jun 7, 2006|
|Admins:||Kris Gorny, Chris treggE|
DescriptionCampinini is just left of Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars and begins off of an obvious two foot tall boulder. The crux of this route is getting off the ground/boulder and past the second bolt where the difficulties ease until the final overhang. The start involves tip-toeing your left foot off of the boulder and bumping your right hand to a sloping dish while holding a crimp/undercling with the left. It looks possible, and very difficult, to begin climbing from the ground by using a very shallow left hand dish. There are a fun series of difficult moves through the second bolt where you reach bomber ledges and a good rest. The route then proceeds through the upper overhanging arete and finishes on anchors immediately to the right of the last bolt.
Due to a lack of traffic the top of this route is very loose and dirty. Get out of the way and expect a shower of rocks from the leader as they approach the top.
- RCM&W # 69, p. 130