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Routes in Annadonia Area

Annadonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campinini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cookie Crumble S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool for Cats S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danger High Boltage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dirty Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
ESP S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Femme Fatale S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freebase T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Future, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking for Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micro Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out Of Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rock-a-holics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Low For Zero S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Willies TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 185 total, 1/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Never even considered trying this route in the summer due to slimey lichen cover, which would undoubtedly make mosquitoes even less enjoyable. Climbed it first time on a cold mid-October day and found it actually quite fun. Start on a dark face with two bolts, go up the arete, and surmount a tricky overhang (crux). Quintessential Red Wing dirt climb: for those who want it fun, do it early spring or late fall, for those who want hardcore swamp-like experience plough yourself into it on a hot and humid day in August.

  • RCM&W #76, p. 130

Protection

Bolts. The route was re-bolted with good bolts and chain anchors by Glenn Burns in 2008.

Photos

rooooock
Oakland, California
  5.10b
rooooock   Oakland, California
  5.10b
The bottom is less sandy than the top of geriatrics. It then becomes sandy again for a few moves in the middle (similar but perhaps less sandy than the top of geriatrics). The top has good rock on the left of the arete and incredibly bad rock to the right. You can go left or right to get on the last ledge at the anchors. I would recommend not going too far right because the rock is incredibly chossy, and it will cause rockfall if you touch it. Oct 7, 2014
Fun climb. Sometimes it's great to find something that not a lot of people are climbing and requires some looking to find the holds. Route can be as easy or hard as you like depending upon if you stay on the face or move the arete and blocky area on the right. Apr 8, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Not a bad climb but it's not sustained either, the middle is very easy. Spent a lot of time ledges just looking for the next hand option. Sep 12, 2011
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
 
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
 
jeff...

rebolted to make it cool for people to climb... added new anchors. obviously, clean up is pending.

-=glenn=- Apr 18, 2008
Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
 
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
 
Climbed this yesterday... dirty & sandy for the first 2 bolts, then ledgy for a couple bolts. The crux is after your feet leave the no hands ledge. The anchors have 2 new glue-ins, and 2 old bolts, only the old bolts are equipped with chains and biners to lower off. Apr 17, 2008