Type: Sport, TR
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 270 total · 2/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Never even considered trying this route in the summer due to slimey lichen cover, which would undoubtedly make mosquitoes even less enjoyable. Climbed it first time on a cold mid-October day and found it actually quite fun. Start on a dark face with two bolts, go up the arete, and surmount a tricky overhang (crux). Quintessential Red Wing dirt climb: for those who want it fun, do it early spring or late fall, for those who want hardcore swamp-like experience plough yourself into it on a hot and humid day in August.

  • RCM&W #76, p. 130

Protection

Bolts. The route was re-bolted with good bolts and chain anchors by Glenn Burns in 2008.

Photos

Jeff Kolehmainen
Eagan, MN
 
Jeff Kolehmainen   Eagan, MN
 
Climbed this yesterday... dirty & sandy for the first 2 bolts, then ledgy for a couple bolts. The crux is after your feet leave the no hands ledge. The anchors have 2 new glue-ins, and 2 old bolts, only the old bolts are equipped with chains and biners to lower off. Apr 17, 2008
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
 
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
 
jeff...

rebolted to make it cool for people to climb... added new anchors. obviously, clean up is pending.

-=glenn=- Apr 18, 2008
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
  5.10b
Not a bad climb but it's not sustained either, the middle is very easy. Spent a lot of time ledges just looking for the next hand option. Sep 12, 2011
Fun climb. Sometimes it's great to find something that not a lot of people are climbing and requires some looking to find the holds. Route can be as easy or hard as you like depending upon if you stay on the face or move the arete and blocky area on the right. Apr 8, 2012
Kyle Robson
Oakland, CA
  5.10b
Kyle Robson   Oakland, CA
  5.10b
The bottom is less sandy than the top of geriatrics. It then becomes sandy again for a few moves in the middle (similar but perhaps less sandy than the top of geriatrics). The top has good rock on the left of the arete and incredibly bad rock to the right. You can go left or right to get on the last ledge at the anchors. I would recommend not going too far right because the rock is incredibly chossy, and it will cause rockfall if you touch it. Oct 7, 2014