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Routes in Annadonia Area

Annadonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campinini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cardiac Standstill S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cinq Jour D'Affille S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cookie Crumble S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool for Cats S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Danger High Boltage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dirty Corner S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
ESP S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Femme Fatale S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freebase T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Future, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatric Sex Maniacs from Mars S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Looking for Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Micro Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out Of Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation S,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rock-a-holics S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rude Awakening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shower the People You Love with Bolts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stylin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Too Low For Zero S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vertical Willies TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Year of the Ankle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA Michael Endrizzi FFA Michael Endrizzi
Page Views: 1,472 total, 17/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

'Same start as Stylin, left of Anadonia. Climb to first bolt of Sylin and head right. Gain shelf 20 feet above Anadonia start, can use Anadonia crack for feet to gain shelf. Traverse back left about 6 feet to small hueco at feet and go straight up, stay on face and do not climb back right to bigger pockets (would be 5.8 if go right). Use small pockets (should be a cool 'trigger' hold) to gain small shelf to final over hang. Use larger pockets to gain anchors. NOTE: The route continues high up another 20 feet, but VERY loose and dangerous, huge chunks have fallen in past. Not recommended if you like your belayer.

Location

Same start as Stylin and Geriatric Sex Machine

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Matthew Weiss
Middleton, WI
 
Matthew Weiss   Middleton, WI
 
I climbed this Sunday 8/3. On the anchors at the top there is a sign saying "route closed due to rock fall" (I also didn't check MP before, I also traversed right to Anadonia anchors). Should we tape otherwise label the first bolt, I know it shares bolts with the route to the left.

Also the last two bolts are super dirty/chossy probably because of the "rockfall". Just be careful folks. Sep 8, 2017
Max Grossman
  5.10b
Max Grossman  
  5.10b
Fun route! Got to the top to find the metal tag (I didn't check MP before heading to the bluff). Not a horrible back clean/traverse using Annadonia anchors, though. Sep 18, 2015
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
#1 I don't think you were on the right route, lot harder than 5.9. You have to stay on boltline, not to the right of bolt line that is too easy.
#2 Yes, like the tag says, the top 20 feet is closed its loose
#3 Yes, like every new route it needs traffic to get clean especially after rain. May 26, 2014
Kevin Jarta
  5.9+ PG13
Kevin Jarta  
  5.9+ PG13
Easy climb, except I pulled a few holds off while climbing it so it was sketchy. Loose rock and lots of sand the whole way up. Got to the top to find a little metal tag with "Route closed due to loose rock" scratched on it. Would have made sense to put it at the second bolt, but at least it's there.

Will not being doing it again and highly suggest against others doing it Apr 27, 2014