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Routes in Midland

Lay of the Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nameless Tower, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sweet and Sticky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violent Phlegms S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,530 total, 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Cheung on May 25, 2006 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

A hidden gem. Scramble up the dirty gully left of Sweet and Sticky and climb the moderate arete past a few bolts. Finagle a tricky section, then cruise through aesthetic moves past several bolts to a decent ledge. Take a few breaths here before the difficulties commence. Working both sides of the arete, boulder up to a perch on the corner, then crank up and right to a stance under a little roof. Pause to ponder your escape; then slap and squeeze back left on terrible feet. A looming, textured bulge guards the anchors -- race past it to the top, fighting the ever-mounting temptation to grab the chains.

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Julian Barnett
Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Julian Barnett   Seattle, WA
  5.12a
Been wanting to check this out for a few years now. Finally did and sent yesterday 3rd go. Freaking awesome fun climbing! Cruiser jug climbing until about half way, then it turns up. With the last several moves being the crux. Top out feels desperate especially in 85 degree heat :-/

I echo gregman's sentiments about the 3rd to last bolt. It's very close to the arete and the biner pulls into the side and just gets mashed up along the spine as you work your way around to the left. If you can, do what gregman mentioned or skip this bolt entirely. This bolt should really be on the left side of the arete.

Like Eric mentioned, the first half was retrofitted with additional bolts, but the upper bolt hangars are pretty loose and rattly. I think they just need to be tightened/wrenched down. Hopefully the bolts themselves are still OK (they look OK) and I took some small falls on them... Aug 15, 2016
gregman
 
gregman  
 
The 'top-out' is truly the crux on this climb! A lot of fun with an unusually consistent increase in difficulty as you ascend. Worth taking a detour from World Wall, especially if it's crowded! It's very well protected (at least now), needing 11 draws to reach the anchor. I would recommend unclipping the third to last bolt (on the right face of the arrete) or put a long draw on it, otherwise the gate will be pulled into the edge and contribute to drag for the last 2 bolts/anchor. There's also a fat locking carabiner connecting the two anchor chains that has been useful for lowering, it is not worn at all. Oct 6, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Eric, or somebody, can you send in some description for this route, so I can add it? Just click on "Improve this page" and I'll get the info you add. Jul 4, 2015
Eric Hirst  
 
A bolt or two was added recently to eliminate the runout section, with permission from the first ascensionist. Jul 4, 2015
Frank Sosa
Washington
Frank Sosa   Washington
I climbed this up to the crux moves on Rad's TR... Really enjoyable movements. Gotta be one of the coolest routes around. Good job on the stylish redpoint Rad. And yes- do bring a stopper so you can sinch it on the bolt in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. You'll definetly want that. Can I give it 4 stars without sending? May 13, 2010
Rad Roberts
  5.12a
Rad Roberts  
  5.12a
Great exposure, rock, and moves. Note that there is a long gap (20ft or so) between the second and third bolts. You can mitigate this by looping a stopper wire on a hangerless bolt on the right face, or just run it out on easy ground. Apr 15, 2010
Carney
Seattle
 
Carney   Seattle
 
Fun arete climbing which rapidly increases in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12 while touching on many of the grades in between. The 5.7 section has zero bolts and is ~20ft run out. Sep 14, 2006