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Routes in Midland

Lay of the Land S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nameless Tower, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet and Sticky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violent Phlegms S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 622 total · 5/month
Shared By: Casey Jones on Aug 13, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Casey Jones
Seattle, WA
 
Casey Jones   Seattle, WA
 
Thin, delicate moves on great rock. Located right of Sweet and Sticky Aug 13, 2008
The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge. (Bolt is shared with Sweet and Sticky.) Apr 10, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.11
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.11
Very fun route, different style for the exits. I found belaying from below where the base of the tree had been rather than the old stance (good location for the 5.9 belay though). Aug 14, 2017
gregman
 
gregman  
 
Reasonable to start/belay from the base of the "sweet and sticky" arete if you are checking out Lay of the Land or The Nameless Tower without having to downclimb or walk all the way around. Thanks for the belay bolt Eric. I recommend back cleaning the 1st draw, and putting a long draw on the next bolt to minimize drag. You can also continue up the arete past the first 'official' anchors to the anchors shared with Sweet and Sticky / Nameless Tower if you intend to do either of those and then only have to clean anchors once. Anchors for all 3 have chains. The route itself wasn't my favorite, but maybe worth stretching outside of the typical type of climbing in the area if you've done the other routes nearby. Jul 15, 2018

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