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Routes in Upper Level - Right

757 2x4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Livin' on Borrowed Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oils Well that Ends Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebel Without a Pause S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandstone Enema S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Lite Sweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Todd Lane
Page Views: 8,823 total, 63/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on May 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a really fun climb that gets easier the higher you go. The crux involves a balancy corner about a third of the way up, and right below a small roofed edge.

The numeric name comes from the fact that it is a 7 bolt 5.7, and a section of a 2x4 plank was used to assist in the anchoring while the route was bolted.

**Note: One concern is that the anchors are set back behind the top of the climb, creating a lot of friction on the rope as you lower off. For very small climbers (kids) it can be almost impossible to get enough weight on the rope to get them back to the ground, resulting in some forceful down climbing. As there are already numerous links on the chains above, the only likely solution would be to add another anchor bolt below the current anchors to reduce the rope drag.

Location

This route is a new addition to the corridor, and a welcomed climb for novices who are not looking to start their day on a 5.9... As you climb above the dividing boulders that separate the lower corridor from the upper, this route is the first on your right, and climbs the right-leaning crack/ramp.

Protection

7 bolts to two anchors (one with extended webbing)
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Seems that with the issues regarding the anchor the seventh bolt should be doubled to create a new lower anchor to facilitate a smoother lower and the name changed to 657 2X4. Dec 19, 2016
Climbed on 6/13/2015. The right anchor bolt is spinning. Jun 14, 2015
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.6
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.6
Cool climb, worth doing. Near the middle I suggest staying out of the crack and get on the face to the left with the plate like features. Apr 24, 2015
kenr  
Overall fun, with a variety of move situations. Thoughtful right off the ground. Thoughtful at the crux mid-way.

An advantage of the higher positiong of top anchor is can use that to protect horizontal traverse Left to the top anchor of "Oils Well That Ends Well". Dec 2, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Some of the holds in the upper face are a little suspect. A rather large one broke off recently resulting in a pretty gnarly fall. Careful what you pull on!

Definitely the easiest route in the Corridor. Fun, but nothing fantastic. Oct 6, 2014
BEWARE!! Just climbed this on 8/17/12 and the right anchor bolt was spinning. Aug 21, 2012
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
 
Fun route! Can be protected safely on gear also. May 20, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
As of 08/29/10, there were new anchor bolts on this route w/ fixe double ring hangers. Don't know who put them in (K?), it wasn't me, but they seem in a great place and the rope pull is fine. Aug 31, 2010
Using a cordalette to build a longer anchor, rather than a couple of quick draws will lessen the rope drag considerably. Jun 16, 2009
Brian Waller
Nevada
Brian Waller   Nevada
sure, it's the easiest route in the corridor but it's lots of fun and worth the time. Jun 25, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
a good route, but the anchors are in a weird spot (way higher than you'd think)- thanks for the long chains, though! Mar 3, 2008
Todd Lane
LV, NV
Todd Lane   LV, NV
Mike and I replaced the old chains on March 25, 2007 with extra-long ones. Please TR on your gear. Mar 30, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
The best warm-up route in Black Corridor and surprisingly a lot of fun! Jul 28, 2006
Mike McGlynn
Henderson, NV.
Mike McGlynn   Henderson, NV.
Todd Lane and I put up this route on 5/13/06. Todd had scoped out the line earlier and suggested that we put it up. After we put it up, Todd had the FA. We did use a chunk of 2x4 wedged in a pocket as part of our anchor for rapping in to place the anchor bolts. I think I may go in business selling different lengths of 2x4 and selling them as "Big Woods" for true environmentally conscious pro. May 23, 2006