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Routes in Upper Level - Right

757 2x4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Livin' on Borrowed Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oils Well that Ends Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebel Without a Pause S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandstone Enema S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Lite Sweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, Sobocan ('90)
Page Views: 1,964 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is a fun route that has all the business at the bottom. Crimp past the first two bolts at the bottom, and then enjoy the remaining four bolts to the top.

If you head too far left at the bottom the grade drops to 5.10+.


This is the third route up canyon on the upper right hand said.


Bolts up to the chains.


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Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I'm not sure but I think this routes description needs to change since the new bolts have moved to the right. Now the crux, while still at the bottom, involves a killer pinch, a mono side pull and an undercling to get to the jug rail at the second bolt. 5.8 crimps after all the way to the ancor. 11.b? I don't know... felt kind of hard to me. Anyone else? Mar 28, 2016
Justin Streit
Justin Streit  
Dude, I completely agree. I don't think the placement of the bolts really matter, but this thing is legitimately hard. Honestly I'm thinking more .11c. No way this thing is on par in difficulty with like a Glitter Gulch or other popular 5.11a's. Not sure if the edges are rounding off over time, but the crux down low involves two shitty pinches to get your feet up, then a thumb press right hand to bring your right foot up nice and high, then an undercling with my long reach completely maxed out to the juggish rail. Even after that, it still wasn't over til you find the next really good hand a couple moves later. Top is definitely chill. Surprised no one else is talking about the difficulty of this thing given all the hangdogs and TR cheats. Finally got it clean after maybe 5 good goes today. Sep 1, 2016
Hard to give this a sport climbing grade, lets say burly V3 boulder problem with a mellow and enjoyable 5.9 sport route ontop of it? Apr 10, 2017

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