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Routes in Upper Level - Right

757 2x4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Livin' on Borrowed Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oils Well that Ends Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebel Without a Pause S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandstone Enema S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Lite Sweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 3,281 total, 19/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is the corner on the right-hand side of the upper Black Corridor (when facing Rebel w/o a Pause). Ascend the corner (sandbag at 5.9), then step right w/ difficulty.

Protection

Six or seven bolts to a lower-off.
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
A hold was chipped into the rock near the first bolt, thus making this route a lot easier. I always thought this route was a sandbag and now I feel it truly is a 5.9 pitch. It's sad to see the rock marred in this way and all climbers should consider this behavior unacceptable. May 2, 2017
the professor  
5.9+
One-move wonder at the start and at most 5.7 the rest of the way. Mar 11, 2016
Short Beta
Troy, MI
Short Beta   Troy, MI
Flashed it :] Super fun. The beginning is 5.9 and the second half is 5.6 climbing.. This was my first experience with relatively spaced out bolts and that huge slab jutting into the route under me made me feel a tad nervous about the potential fall.
I, too, am short at 5'2" and didn't remember the start being too tough. Mar 31, 2014
Elliot Befus 1
  5.9+
Elliot Befus 1  
  5.9+
Interesting start until you can sink a nice deep hand jam to clip from, then an enjoyable jug haul to the top. Feb 24, 2014
y'all can't handle a tricky start? I thought it was a fun warm-up with a good variety of moves Jul 21, 2013
6'3" and I remember the start taking a couple tries, but I loved this route. My favorite at the Corridor, probably because I'm more of a trad guy Apr 26, 2013
Ben Sherwin
  5.10a
Ben Sherwin  
  5.10a
I agree with a lot of the comments here. If you are used to trad and used to stemming you'll find this route very enjoyable. I would not have wanted to lead this route. Apr 17, 2013
Brittany V
Las Vegas, NV
Brittany V   Las Vegas, NV
I am not a strong 5.9 leader but I enjoyed the start and so did a friend of mine. We're both 5'4"ish. I have heard my taller male friends say that they struggled and fell at the start, so that opening sequence may just lend itself well to short flexible people for whatever reason. Jul 19, 2012
Maxm
 
Maxm  
 
As stated above ^ moving to the second bolt is all friction. Have your friends take a picture as you crawl through the tunnel! Apr 11, 2012
Agree with above post. This is one of the most interesting routes in the corridor with unique moves and a challenging opening sequence. Definitely has a trad feel. A must do. Apr 7, 2012
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
The start would seem lame if you couldn't do it.

If you primarily climb trad, this will be one of your favorite routes in the corridor. I thought it was spectacular. Most fun I've ever had on a sport route, but that's because the tricky stemming required to pass the low crux wasn't just another jug haul. I can definitely see where sport climbers would hate this. Not many climbing gyms prepare you for the opening moves. Reasonably well protected and fun! Jan 16, 2012
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
This route has one move that is definitely not 5.9. I'm thinking more 5.10a/b. I enjoyed the top portion, although it's much more mellow. Mar 28, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ PG13
On 3/15/11, the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with 1/2" x 4.75" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped it with mussy hooks. Mar 15, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
All the pro bolts have been replaced with 3.75 x 1/2. the second bolt was moved down and left due to rock quality and clipping concerns, as expressed in the above posts. The anchor has not yet been replaced. Nov 8, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ PG13
My first (and only) time up this route, I nearly broke my jaw on the starting ledge when I popped at the crux (before I clipped the second bolt). Literally missed it by an inch.

Stick clip the second bolt on this route and its worth doing, otherwise, avoid it. Sep 21, 2010
looks good from a far, but far from good Jan 20, 2010
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
  5.9+ PG13
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
  5.9+ PG13
That has got to be one of the weirdest starts. I felt completely off balance getting that second clip. The rest of the route was much easier and fun. Jan 19, 2010
Sonnabend
West Saint Paul, MN
Sonnabend   West Saint Paul, MN
Brutal start on this route. I ended up down climbing off of it because I couldn't make it past the second bolt. I saw a guy climbing a 5.11 struggle with the start of this route. The rest of it looked fun though. Maybe if you stick clipped the first two bolts. Sep 28, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Very awkward start, not a good route to lead if 5.9 is your limit. Jun 4, 2009
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9+ PG13
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9+ PG13
The start is lame... Feb 6, 2007
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+ PG13
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+ PG13
This route is a must do with really fun moves but take care getting to the second clip as it's pretty dicey with awkward moves and the fall there has the potential to be nasty. I've seen many people (including myself) lead many of the 10's in the corridor and take a fall trying to get the second clip. Easy cruising terrain above and one of the longest in the corridor awaits! Aug 14, 2006