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Routes in Upper Level - Right

757 2x4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Livin' on Borrowed Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oils Well that Ends Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebel Without a Pause S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandstone Enema S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Lite Sweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 15,652 total · 88/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Edit]

Perhaps the best route in the Black Corridor - it is the obvious line that sits at the mouth of the upper section. It begins on a terrace then climbs up steep, heavily-chalked huecos.

Protection [Edit]

Four bolts to a lower off.
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Fun climbing up steep, positive holds provides a welcome change of pace from the typical Black Corridor slabfest. If you do just one route in the BC make sure it's this one. Feb 22, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
Unfortunately just a little on the short side though... Feb 23, 2006
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
I agree. I wouldnt mind about three more bolts of that kind of climbing. Fun route and all the holds are right where you need them. May 12, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
This route has awesome moves, with some variety (crimps, jugs, slopes, undercling...) A bit of beta: Be careful of the possibility of a Z-Clip at the third bolt, as you are close to the wall and the bolt. Use the right-handed undercling when moving through the crux, rather than throwing to the top. It's much more controlled, and a very fun sequence. May 17, 2006
Note to one of the locals - just did this route last week and several of the bolts and one of the anchors is loose and should be replaced. Oct 17, 2006
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy. Nov 7, 2008
Agreed on the anchors. Pulled out about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. My friend was TR'ing it and was hanging on the anchors for a while....would definitely have to be replaced soon because if someone was saying they were loose in 2006...well you get the picture.... Dec 2, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
On March 29th, 2010- the ASCA replaced all four protection bolts and the anchors on this route. All new bolts (except one) are 1/2" x 2.75 SS 5- piece. The 3rd bolt is a 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece (this was placed due to rock quality concerns).

The anchor has been moved from the left side of the top scoop to the right due to terrible rock quality on the left side (as indicated by the extremely poor condition of the bolts)- the bolts are now up and right as you top out, and are equipped with mussy hooks for ease of cleaning. All other pro bolts were placed in the same vicinity as the old ones.

Special thanks to the AAI for their help today. Mar 29, 2010
Jhernand
Salt Lake City, UT
5.10d
Jhernand   Salt Lake City, UT
5.10d
agreed with jarthur... 11b is a little steep i think. i would give it a high 10 if not straight up 11. just my $.02 Apr 2, 2010
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.11a/b
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.11a/b
A better rating for this route would be V3--consider if it was a boulder with the ground at the level of the rest ledge after the 1st bolt.

New anchors and bolts much appreciated! May 25, 2011
Matthew W.
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Matthew W.   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Climbed a few days ago and the right most of the 2 chain anchors at the top has a broken gate. The other is fine though. Apr 1, 2012
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c/d
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c/d
Big moves on good holds. A bit overhung, so pumpy. Good for trying hard and falling. Short. Apr 5, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.10c/d
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.10c/d
Oozed off the final holds while clipping the anchor way back in 1995. Just ran out of gas. Big air for a short route. Huge round of applause from the crowds in the BC. Fond memory (especially since I didn't hit anything.) May 24, 2012
EFS
5.11a
EFS  
5.11a
light 11, awesome looking sitting in the upper corridor, saw it and knew i had to get on it. i was glad i did. left it top roped for my buddy to unclip as he went up. nice climb but short. Jul 25, 2012
Jason Cheung  
 
Climbed this on 2/17 and one of the gates one hook is kinda busted. Also seconding the mention of a super easy opportunity to z clip. Feb 20, 2014
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Fantastic route; more of a short, pumpy, super fun boulder problem. Be careful not to Zclip the crux as the bolts are so close together (whoops). FYI Bolts were somewhat loose (spun a bit) as of 4/27/14 as are many in the area. May 26, 2014
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
Short and steep, a V2 problem with a couple of bolts. Best climb in the corridor. Jan 28, 2016
I would suggest climbing through the crux before clipping the final bolt before the anchors Nov 28, 2016
12/14/2016 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Rebel Without a Pause. The second and third protection bolts were replaced with Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolts. Dec 14, 2016

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