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Routes in Upper Level - Right

757 2x4 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Livin' on Borrowed Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oils Well that Ends Well S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rebel Without a Pause S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandstone Enema S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Lite Sweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Steagall, Sandefur, Werner, & Sobocan - 1990
Page Views: 3,098 total · 17/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 30, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This fun little route is the last one on your right when facing Rebel w/o a Pause and climbs past a very obvious crescent-shaped hold. The first clip is tough.

Protection

A few bolts to a lower-off. Be careful on the first clip!

Photos

Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
This route is no longer the last route to the right of "rebel." However, if you look for the crecent-shaped hold you can easily find the start. May 22, 2006
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
Sandbagged. The first two moves feel more like 5.12a/b. Mar 28, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
If I recall correctly, this thing is kind of a pile. I think its a sandbag at 11c (probably more like 12-) and the hard climbing lasts for two or so moves and then its over. On top of that, the "monos" look suspiciously like drill work (if the pockets are not drilled, my apologies to the FA's). Mar 28, 2011
Chris DeWitt
Sacramento, CA
Chris DeWitt   Sacramento, CA
Agreed. I was belaying and the leader was clipping the second bolt while pinching the left monos and then he called for fall (missed the clip and dropped the rope). That's probably the fastest I've had to run in years... Mar 28, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
huh, i never even noticed those mono pockets- i always climbed the obvious features to the right, then moved left at the second bolt- its probably .11c/d that way, and the second bolt is a tough clip- but thats what stick clips are for, right? it is, after all, the corridor. Mar 28, 2011
Jonathan K  
 
I agree this is an awesome short sport climb true to the grade just don't get deceived by the chalk leading left to low Apr 21, 2011
Shawn M  
As far as I am aware, most people start straight then veer left. If you go straight, the route is definitely quite hard. For the two years or so when I was in Vegas, I rarely saw anyone (or any chalk) trying the route straight-- most people look at it, look at Rebel, look at it, and then then climb Rebel. In fact, until your posts from March 2011 above, I didn't even know anyone else climbed this thing. Aug 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
I thought this route was very good. Intricate and balanced movement combined with a bit of power make this a really solid route and high in the grade- if not slightly sandbagged. It might be a bit confusing as to which holds are "on" when looking at the route from the ground but the obvious movement will reveal itself once you're on the route. Despite what others have said I feel this route does let up but does not fall into the "easy" range. Still around 5.10 climbing after the 3rd bolt. Dec 16, 2011
Blue Sheffer
Stanford, California
  5.11c
Blue Sheffer   Stanford, California
  5.11c
Probably the best, most consistent "hard" route at the corridor. I only went right at the beginning to the obvious crimps. After that, to maintain consistency, I'd advise against using the chalked up, leftward facing crimpy sidepull to the right of the undercling, and instead stay left to the reachy crimps on shit feet. Aug 21, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11+
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11+
This was pretty fun. 11c is pretty fair I think, going straight up. Cool cruxes! Hardest part is seeing your feet. I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt... The clipping hold is above the bolt and you have to commit to the move and I could see someone hitting the ground. Apr 3, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.11c
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.11c
Led it yesterday, ditto John Wilder. Stays on ya at solid 5.11 for three of the four bolts. Dec 16, 2016

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