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Routes in Hidden Dome

Balance Due T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calgary Stampede T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Creative Effort T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Screaming Poodle, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Screaming Woman, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Too Secret to Find T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tucson Bound T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1986
Page Views: 1,225 total, 9/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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22 Opinions

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Description

This route ascends the set of short cracks to the right of "Too Secret to Find" (the main crack on this face).
Mostly face climbing with a few finger jams up to the horizontal, then delicate face moves to gain the upper crack. The crux is the upper face section.
A fun route with interesting moves, definitely worth doing if you are in the area.

Descend from the summit of the dome by downclimbing to the climber's left back into the gully.

Protection

The bottom section protects surprisingly well with nuts and small TCUs. Two bolts protect the upper face section past the horizontal crack.
A belay must be set at the top (medium cams will do).

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.10c/d
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10c/d
One of my favorite 5.10's in Joshua Tree. Sustained and excellent climbing. Healthy run above the second bolt, but the crux is well protected. Feb 6, 2017
Gargano
Oakland, CA
 
Gargano   Oakland, CA
 
Great route offering a nice mix of thin cracks and delicate face. Technical the whole way, but broken by a nice stance at about halfway. The gear in the first section is all bomber, but can be fiddly to place. Brass and small camming units will sew it up. Crux is up high and is well-protected. Feb 10, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Thin pro placements make this a proud send. Bomber gear but get your head on for thin stuff. Bolts are fat and well placed with primary crag anchor up top. Stoppers, small gear and your lid on tightÂ… that's what this route takes. Absolutely worth doing is any move harder than 10b? Not sure, but I'll go with 10c as it's game on for the lead. Nov 14, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Not 100% sure but I think they're on the formation due north (can't remember the name but it has some routes).

You see a lot of those really fat 3 bolt stud clusters in josh for highlines, I think I've run into about 5 of them so far just topping things out. Feb 14, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10b
Tradiban  
  5.10b
Ah yes, they seemed to be in a strange spot. Where's the other side? Feb 13, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Those bolts in the hueco are for slacklining. I think they're 5/8ths. Feb 13, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10b
Tradiban  
  5.10b
The new Vogel selects guide (5.10b) has this clipping the bolts than traversing off right but traversing off would be better to do at the horizontal and not bother to clip the bolts. wish I would have known the proper way was straight up, looked pretty good.

The bolts in the hueco at the top are missing hangers but there's a nice net of anchors right over "Too Secret to Find". Feb 13, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
That's funny - I thought screaming poodle was maybe 1 letter grade easier. At least the crux. Very different styles, for sure, and definitely significantly harder than too secret to find. Mar 25, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
The guidebook calls this 10c PG. If Screaming Poodle, two routes over, is 10c, Balance Due struck me as a couple of letter grades harder. Nov 19, 2010
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
Cool! Thanks for replacing the bolts... Gonna head back out there this weekend... Apr 23, 2008
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
FYI I replaced the bolts on this route 11/02/07. The originals were 1" hardware store junk. It is now equipped with 3.5" 5 piece rawls. Someone has set a convenience anchor at the top. This is not my work.

A really nice route, by the way... Nov 9, 2007