Balance Due
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.05462, -116.1755 |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,385 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Graham Roff on Apr 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the set of short cracks to the right of "Too Secret to Find" (the main crack on this face).
Mostly face climbing with a few finger jams up to the horizontal, then delicate face moves to gain the upper crack. The crux is the upper face section.
A fun route with interesting moves, definitely worth doing if you are in the area.
Descend from the summit of the dome by downclimbing to the climber's left back into the gully.



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