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Routes in Hidden Dome

Balance Due T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Calgary Stampede T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Creative Effort T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Screaming Poodle, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Screaming Woman, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Too Secret to Find T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tucson Bound T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Greg Murphy and Dave Houghton, February 1987
Page Views: 96 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jun 9, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun and varied route on excellent rock. The first 20' is the crux - steep finger and hand jamming. The upper half is quite easy: 5.6 or 5.7

Location

This is an obvious crack system at the right end of the formation. Half way up, the crack passes along the left side of a large block. Near the top, angle right and face climb up.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Description is accurate. Getting started and the 1st 20 or so is the crux. Opening moves require a step across then plug in some finger size gear. Hands/fingers are flaring, awkward or something but short lived. Eases with angle as you continue. Topping the bulge you can plug in an 1.5" cam under a roof, this is recommended and extend with runner. I almost skipped placing gear there but the idea of taking a digger down past the bulge and past the last piece of pro seemed avoidable. Expecting easy 5.6 no-gear knobs to the top I launched off. WOW was I glad I placed that piece below. Not one but two pieces of rock came off in my hand. Upper section is kinda poor quality and was not expected to break off. Climbed to the summit slightly left with thin crack providing a small stopper placement for protection. Hit the summit holding a piece of rock as "visual aid" for my belayer. Nov 14, 2013