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Routes in Fire Crags

Bent Brain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Europe Revisited S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face the Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Fit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grib Dat Hole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jensen's Jugs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Movin' Out S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Randy Judycki & Brent Bain, 1992
Page Views: 1,690 total · 11/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A quality warm-up to some of the harder lines at the cliff. Start left of Jensen's Jugs. A thin start leads to easier and enjoyable climbing above.


4 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.


Jan Roestel
Jan Roestel  
It looks like all of the rain this Winter has cause Bent Brain morph a bit. The large boulder wedged in the V-slot at the top is gone. Anyone know the story or timeline of its demise? Be alert, some of the rock just below the V-slot is still loose, held together only by the dirt and roots that are left.
Also, some flake exfoliation has occurred for one reason or another. There a number of other flakes that seem to be loose too.
REMINDER: Please let the rock dry thoroughly after rain!

The third bolt appears to be new (w/ Metolius hanger.) The old bolt hole should be patched. Apr 11, 2011
Jan - the boulder fell off in a winter rainstorm around Feb. When it fell, it also took out the massive oak tree at the base of the wall. Did you notice this? The route is probably loose from the rockfall that occurred. Apr 11, 2011
Jan Roestel
Jan Roestel  
Thanks Rich, I remember a "thanks for clearing the oak tree" comment and I assumed that the two events were related.
PS - The Fire Crags are what you make of them. I like the Crags for rope soloing and can get in 15+ laps in a less than two hours for training after work. Apr 12, 2011
J T  
Even with chipped foot holds at the start, it was extremely hard for a 5.8. And it didn't get any easier until after the third bolt. All the holds seem to have been worn away by the weather. I wouldn't call this a 5.8 anymore, unless it's just wicked sandbagged. Personally, hard climb for the grade for short and tall climbers. Mar 19, 2012
On 12/17/14 I knocked off a microwave sized block from just climbers left of the anchor. I was able to pull it off with much less pressure than expected. This block usually has had a bunch of chalk on it! The block was just held in place with dirt. Most of the loose stuff is now gone. I didn't walk around below, or climb the route, to see of anything else below got knocked loose in the trundle. Dec 18, 2014
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
My favorite climb at the crag. Watch out for the area just left of the anchor, large chunks are loose and I wouldn't pull on anything left of the v slot. Apr 14, 2016
Randall Judycki
Austin, Texas
Randall Judycki   Austin, Texas
When I was still living in S.B I went to the Fire crags and noticed the tree down. Came back with a big saw and removed it, big tree, sorry to see it go. Yes, I will agree with all of you that climbs here have changed and the ratings are not accurate. However, what a view and easy access to climbing. May 30, 2016

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