Fire Crags Rock Climbing
Routes in Fire Crags
|Bent Brain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Black Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Europe Revisited S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Face the Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Finger Fit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Grib Dat Hole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jensen's Jugs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Movin' Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Short Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||34.493, -119.793 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionThe Fire Crags consist of two boulders that were discovered after the Painted Cave fire swept through the area in late June of 1990, uncovering them from the surrounding chaparral. Randy Judycki established it first as a TR area until it cleaned up. He enlisted the help of Santa Barbara local Mike Colee (long "o", long "e") to establish most of the lead routes in 1992. "It was a mess to clean up," Colee remembers.
"I spent much of my time the first two years building the trail and cleaning the routes," recalls Judycki. "Since the rock is soft sandstone and it went through a very hot fire, [it] was cleaned extensively so no large blocks would fall on people".
There are more than a dozen sport routes, the longest (and best) about 50 feet in length. It's easy to knock out all or most of the routes in a half day. Bring about 8 draws and a camera - the view is great!
The route numbers follow.
16. Europe Revisited (5.6) - 2 bolts to anchor, 20'.
17. Tester (5.9) - 3 bolts to anchor (shared with Europe Revisited), 30'.
18. Short Shot (5.8) - 3 bolts to anchor, 30'.
19. Bent Brain (5.8) - 4 bolts to anchor, 40'.
20. Jensen's Jugs (5.10b) - 4 bolts to anchor, 50'.
21. Movin' Out (5.11b/c) - 5 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped holds.
22. Grib Dat Hole (5.11a) - 6 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped.
23. Finger Fit (5.11b) - 5 bolts.
24. Face the Seam (5.10a) - 3 bolts to anchor, 35'.
25. Black Crack (5.9+) - 4 bolts to anchor, 35'.
26. Quick Crank (5.10+) - Don't bother.
27. Screaming Knee Knee (5.11c) - 3 bolts.
28. Flaccidily Flexing Forearms (5.11d) - 3 bolts.
29. Crack It Up (5.9) - Long boulder problem.
Classic Climbing Routes at Fire Crags
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season