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Routes in Fire Crags

Bent Brain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Europe Revisited S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Face the Seam S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Fit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grib Dat Hole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jensen's Jugs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Movin' Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Shot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Randy Judycki & Derek Jensen, 1992
Page Views: 1,484 total, 10/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Feb 15, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start left of Grib Dat Hole. Runout, but easy climbing to the third bolt, just DON'T FALL (ground fall)! Crux is high and well-protected.

Protection

4 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Feels stiff for a .10 Don't blow the second bolt, the hole between the first and second bolt has a fracture on the side, but might make for psychological pro. Apr 14, 2016
Robert Holder
  5.10+
Robert Holder  
  5.10+
I found it slightly harder than Grib Dat Hole , but that may just be psycological:
The crux of Grib is just off the ground, whereas the crux (in my opinion) for Jensen's is a few moves below the anchor after the "big move" on jugs, which gets you a little pumped.

The climb was well-protected when I did it. There is some run-out at the bottom in a ~5.5-5.6 section, but you are never far from a bolt on the hard moves. Feb 17, 2015
Floyd Hayes
  5.10d PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10d PG13
I couldn't find the first bolt (missing?), which wouldn't have been necessary (easy climbing), so I wound up clipping only three. I used a sling on the arch to protect the sketchy move to the bolt protecting the crux--I'm pretty sure it would have held a short fall. I'm 5'10" and was able to cruise through the crux, but my 5'7" and 5'3" companions couldn't reach the jug at the crux, so for them it was a 5.11. Dec 27, 2011
Jan Roestel
  5.10b/c PG13
Jan Roestel  
  5.10b/c PG13
The natural thread mentioned above has a crack completely down the leftside. The whole area around the hole seems to be more hollow and flexible than I previously remember. Apr 11, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.10+ PG13
Richard Shore  
  5.10+ PG13
I used the natural thread with a 4' sling as pro before clipping that 3rd bolt. Clipping the 3rd bolt is not height dependent either - I am 6'3" and it is committing and scary, especially when you consider the near-groundfall potential. Jan 21, 2011
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
We also used the upper bolts for anchors as the hooks have a lost some rock around them and didn't sit well with us for TR'ing. Nov 24, 2010
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.10b R
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.10b R
Easy climbing to the 3rd bolt????

Cleary this is a height dependent statement. Even clipping the second bolt feels precarious and tricky with a certain decking event if you fall. I think next time I'll sling that hold as well, better than nothing, but really this route could use one bolt to prevent a groundfall. Aug 16, 2010
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
5.10d PG13
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
5.10d PG13
I thought about protecting the move to the bolt above the cave by tying a sling around the bottom of the huge hole, but it might not have been that strong. Definitely harder than 10b. It is at least 10d. The open shuts up top have had alot of rock wear out from under them, but still seem mostly secure. The third bolt at the anchor is a good idea. Apr 18, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10+ PG13
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10+ PG13
Feels WAY hard for the grade to me--5.10+ in my book. Jul 24, 2007